Hi all, sorry for my recent absence but was a busy summer and the constant problems with Lizzie finally got to me and so I took a bit of a break from it and just drove the wife's Volvo for a bit
Finally got a bit of drive to get some more of the needed work done and so I'm back for some more of your collective wisdom. Some of you will recall I had problems with the drivers window not sealing properly into the door frame. I've looked into the window adjustment side of things, but the more i look at that section of the workshop guide, the less convinced I am that that is where i need to be looking to sort this problem out. It almost looks as if the door isn't 'pulled in' far enough when in the fully closed position. The sensor does normally register the door as closed, however if I go over a large bump then it will often throw the 'STOP' warning for an open door. if i simply lock the door the error instantly clears though.
So, my question! - Can i actually adjust the door somehow to pull further into the car body as i feel that this may clear my problem which is especially important with autumn/winter on the way!
Many thanks as always for your time and any advice you can give me!
2003 2.0. Dyno'd @ 134BHP. 2.5" full stainless exhaust system, lexus style rear lights, LED sidelights and interiors. Latest mod - Full stainless steel Group N gear linkages.
Ok, quick update. My father-in-law wanted to have a look at this problem and whilst showing him he asked for a little walk-around. Whilst doing this I noticed that the drivers window is not as far back towards the rear of the car) as the passenger side is. This means that on the passenger side, when the window is shut it is pushing the rubber seal together to form a nice wind and water tight seal. On the drivers side, the window appears to be set further forwards, meaning that when the window shuts, it doesn't put any pressure on the rear seal so it doesn't put any pressure on the quarter window rubber. This in turn means that due to a lack of any pressure, the seal doesn't bulge meaning that the sealing between the two surfaces is less than ideal. This leads me to believe that it IS in fact the window that needs adjusting in accordance with the repair manual on this site. Does anyone happen to remember what the bolt heads are on the two adjustment screws mentioned? I would assume they are torx heads but any idea what size?
Thanks again!
2003 2.0. Dyno'd @ 134BHP. 2.5" full stainless exhaust system, lexus style rear lights, LED sidelights and interiors. Latest mod - Full stainless steel Group N gear linkages.
I think the adjustment bolts only permit up/down adjustment. For the sealing of the window rear edge. check that the gap between the rear edge of the door and the pillar is the same on both sides. If it is more on the door with the problem, it is necessary to shim the hinge. On my driver's door, I found the gap at the bottom was ok, but it was too great at the top, so I shimmed the upper hinge, with a shim I cut from a plastic bottle. Fitting the shim is best done with an assistant.
If you need to pull the door in more, slightly slacken the two bolts which secure the striker plate to the rear door-pillar, move the plate inwards, re-secure and try again.
I did compare the gap on both the doors and it looks the same to me. I'm not sure about the window adjustment as I haven't had time yet to take off the door trim and have a play, but I'm as sure as I can be that the fix I need is to move (somehow!) the window backwards roughly 2mm to create the correct seal onto the quarter-window sealing strip. If anyone else has any ideas how the achieve this I'm all ears!
2003 2.0. Dyno'd @ 134BHP. 2.5" full stainless exhaust system, lexus style rear lights, LED sidelights and interiors. Latest mod - Full stainless steel Group N gear linkages.
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Firstly, sorry for not updating this in a more timely manner...life got busy for a bit with one thing and another! Firstly, the window adjustment screws do allow for movement both vertically and horizontally. Not much mind, but the adjustment is there. This has worked in preventing any further water ingress, which is fantastic as the weather is starting to close in fast over here! I now have a slightly different problem which I think may be solved with the striker plate solution you suggest Ian. There's higher wind noise on the drivers side that the passengers...i can hear the tyres in water much more clearly than I feel i should be able to! No water though! Thanks both for your suggestions, as always i really appreciate the help!
2003 2.0. Dyno'd @ 134BHP. 2.5" full stainless exhaust system, lexus style rear lights, LED sidelights and interiors. Latest mod - Full stainless steel Group N gear linkages.
