Overheated!

[dawny10]

Hi all
Just looking for a bit of advice really, after a two hour fairly clear motorway trip today I hit some stop-start traffic and my 2.0 206cc SE overheated. I would say we were crawling for about 10 to 15 mins and I suddenly noticed that the water temp was very close to red. Unfortunately I wasnt anywhere I could stop (not without closing the A1!) so had to drive for a couple of mins with it flashing STOP at me before I could pull over and get the engine off.

I let it cool down for half an hour and then drove the 5 mins to my destination.

What could I be looking at? I tried to top up the coolant (you cannot see the level in mine at all through the plastic) and it turns out to be fine as it is now overfilled (oh and if anyone knows a way to rectify this I'd be grateful!). No patches under the car here or where I stopped to let it cool down.

I'm trying to remember if I could hear the fan when I stopped after it overheated and dont think I could but cant be sure - I cant remember hearing it when I've stopped before to be honest!

My main problem is I'm away 120 miles from home, no access to a garage and really need to drive back, but obviously dont want to kill it if somethings gone. I'm thinking if its the fan then as long as I'm going along at speed I will be ok? If it was something else like the thermostat or water pump then driving would be bad?

Any thoughts/advice/diagnosis tips gratefully received!

[waxhead]

try taking the air out the system by cracking off the plug on the top of the rad.

[GrandadMonkey]

You're right in saying that if you're not in heavy traffic then the air-flow through the radiator should be enough to cool the engine even if the fan is not cutting in. However, if you do try getting home do keep your eye on the coolant temperature gauge. Bear in mind that if you blow the head-gasket you'll have a very expensive repair on your hands. If you've overfilled the coolant I shouldn't worry as it won't hurt it, or you could syphon a little out of the reservoir if it is way, way over.

I believe your car will be 12 years old this year, and I don't think you've told us whether or not the cambelt has been changed. If it hasn't been renewed then it is overdue, and likely to be on the original water pump and coolant mixture. So if this is the case I should arrange for the cambelt, idler and tensioner pulleys to be renewed, together with the water pump. The cooling system should be flushed out and refilled with fresh coolant mix at the same time.

Of course, if your cambelt has already been renewed, whoever did it might have done it the cheap way without renewing the water pump and the coolant, and this might be giving you the circulatory issues that you now seem to be experiencing. That's why I always advise doing the whole lot - belt, pulleys, water pump and coolant at the same time - saves money in the long run.

Let us know how you get on.

Ron

[dawny10]

Thanks guys - I did get the cambelt changed as a condition on buying it... however I didnt know as much as I do now so I didnt know to ask to get the full set & pump changed at the same time! So dont know if they did that or not.

How can you tell if the water pump has failed? Is it right that the heater wont work if this has happened?

I have tried running it a little whilst parked and cant spot any bubbles in the coolant reservoir which I understand might show the coolant is escaping and cant spot any gunk in the oil which might show the gasket has gone.

How long would it take idling to get the fan to kick in normally? I was contemplating leaving it to run for a while but really cant remember when it comes on!

[GrandadMonkey]

I don't have a 2.0 but with our 1.6 up to normal running temperature (about 80 degrees on the gauge) if I leave it ticking over at standstill the fan cuts in within 3 or 4 minutes max.

What can happen with the water pump is that the impeller can corrode (which means that coolant circulation is not as good), or occasionally the impeller can break off (although I've not known that happen on a 206) which means that circulation stops. If the water pump fails completely you will have hot and cold spots in the various hoses. The car itself would overheat and seize pretty quickly resulting in permanent serious damage. I don't think that has happened with yours but the water pump may well be past its best.

Judging from your remarks I reckon that the cambelt got changed but nothing else. So the coolant in your car is 12 years old with all the accumulated gunge and crud in it which affects circulation through the radiator, the hoses and the heater matrix. The effects of this will be a tendency to overheat and the interior heater to be less efficient. If it were me I would drain the coolant, reverse flush the cooling system with a garden hose until the water comes through perfectly clear, then refill with the correct anti-freeze solution and ensure that all air-locks are eradicated. You will probably find that that will cure your problem. If it does continue to overheat after that then you could be looking at a new water pump, but hopefully your existing one will last until the next cam-belt change is due.

[dawny10]

Well I've had it running up to normal temp and the fan isn't kicking in at all, nor when I put the AC on so I'm pretty sure its the fan thats the problem so hopefully a simple job to sort.

I think you are right though and I'll look to get the system fully flushed out.

Thanks for your help. I was so proud of it passing its MOT last week as well!

[Capncol]

I would fix the fan before delving too deep.
You may have got away without damaging the engine if it didn't get too hot.

[GrandadMonkey]

I agree with capncol. Fix what is broken first. If the fan isn't cutting in at all then you've found your problem by the sound of it.

[suegriff]

Hi
I have a 2.0 se and fan cuts in about 92/95 but saying that i can hardly hear the fan cut in when yr in the car...