How to-Brake Discs & Pads change with pics.

[Capncol]

Just for you people in 206cc.co.uk land....

I have put the pics up in high resolution. You may have to go to the bottom of the thread & scroll from side-to-side to see the full image

First start by jacking up & supporting the car on stands. Then remove the wheels (If you can't manage this without a guide, should you be attempting the brakes?)

Front brakes.

Start by loosening the 2 Torx screws that hold the disc onto the hub (see pic 4) You can have an assistant apply the brakes to stop disc from turning. Dont do this if you are only changing pads.

If you look at the caliper, you will see that there is a piston on the back side only. The caliper is free to slide on "pins" that are protected by rubber boots. The caliper fixing bolts, top & bottom, screw into them (see pic below)
Jamb a large screwdriver in the the slot in the caliper at the end nearest the wheel and furthest from the piston and lever the caliper towards you, ie away from the suspension strut and it will slide along the pins to allow play in the pads.
Then remove the top and bottom bolts to and remove the caliper.




Next lever out the old pads.
If you are only changing pads then simply put the new ones in and push back the caliper piston and replace caliper (see pic 5)




In order to get the discs off, you must remove these 2 torx bolts and remove the caliper carrier.




Then remove the Torx bolts that hold the disc on and bash the disc off from behind using a large copper/wood/plasic mallet. They are usually a bit rusted on so some effort needed.



Compare the new discs with the old to make sure the bolt holes are the same, that it's the same diameter, and that it's the same thickness (allowing for wear of course)
Refit new discs to hubs and loosly fix with the 2 torx screws. Refit caliper carrier and use loctite or similar threadlock on the bolts. Do them up tight.
Next place pads in the caliper carrier in the reverse manner to how you removed them. Make sure the "ears" engage in the spring clips properly.
Next force the caliper piston back in the housing using a "G" clamp, sash clamp or similar, and refit caliper back onto caliper carrier with the 2 bolts top & bottom making sure brake hose isn't twisted. Tighted the 2 torx screws holding on the discs (apply brakes if need be)




Should look like this.




Refit wheels and pump brake pedal untill pedal goes hard before attempting to drive car.

[Thar]

Worthy of a sticky I feel

[Capncol]

Rear brakes
Again, assuming you know how to jack up, support, remove wheels and chock the car safely, else you wouldn't be attempting this...

Take a careful note of the positioning of the springs that are hooked around one ear of each brake pad. These are the anti rattle springs and will only work when fitted correctly.
Start by loosening the torx screw that holds the disc to the hub the same as the front discs. You can use the handbrake to stop disc turning. Next pull out the tiny clip at the bottom as if you were pulling the pin on a hand grenade. Before continuing make sure hand brake is off.




Using a pin punch, or old flatblade screwdriver, drive the "L" section wedge out from the inside. It wont go the other way because it will hit the bolt head. It's the one you have just pulled the clip out of. Note which way it is fitted, this is important as the wedge is all that holds your pads in. Be careful. It "bruises easily" If it won't come out, move it enough to get to the bolt head, and remove it once the caliper is split




Next take out these 2 bolts to seperate the caliper




Then remove the torx srew that hold the disc to the hub, and bash the disc off from behind in the same manner as the front disc change.
You should now be seeing this. The circular piston at the 3o'lock position has slots that form a cross. The slots are part of the handbrake mechanism.



Unlike the front caliper piston, this one MUST be wound back, so using a caliper wind back tool like this, or a broad, flat piece of steel (old wood chisel??) turn the piston clockwise while pushing piston back into caliper. Be careful you don't damage the rubber boot. You should screw it back in as far as you can. This is to allow room for the new (thicker) pads. Don't try and push it back in as you would the front caliper or you will damage it. Leave the piston with the slot at 90 degrees to the centre of the wheel hub as shown.



The new brake pads will have raised "pips" on the back of at least 2 of the pads. When you refit the pads, these "pips" engage in the slot on the piston. So if your set of pads is like mine with 2 pips, use one pad with a pip on each side of the car.



Refit the carrier to the caliper using threadlock on the 2 bolts and refit the pads in the reverse order that you removed them in, making sure the pip on the back of the pad engages in the slot in the piston. Pay attention to the springs & wedge and don't forget the hand grenade pin.

If you do one side at a time, you can refer to the other side to see how it goes together as it is a mirror image.

When both side are done, with the hand brake off, pump the brake pedal firmly until pedal goes hard. Now try the handbrake. It should have self adjusted and the handbrake lever should be at the normal angle when h/brake applied. If not, pump again (sometimes helps to run engine to give power assistance)


Now go and have a beer/ wine / pimms or whatever and give yourself a pat on the back!

Any questions?

[gazza82]

I don't remember taking the caliper mounts off to replace the front discs on our CC ... I'm sure that with the caliper off they slotted in ok.

[Frenchy_29]

"In order to get the discs off, you must remove these 2 torx bolts and remove the caliper carrier."

Anyone know what size Torx tool I need to remove the the caliper carrier ?
Cheers

[evilhamster]

the torx tool size is T55

[Milton]

where can i get the caliper tool for a Peugeot 206.

[GrandadMonkey]

Amazon do a wind-back cube (which is what I bought). Suitable for various cars.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-52334-8- ... 083&sr=8-2

[fatboyslim]

So I did the rear discs/pads on my Pug today and this made it easy
Problem is my handbrake is still rubbish,6 clicks and it about holds,8 clicks and it's ok
I'm guessing it's going to need adjusting now??

[gazza82]

Did you follow the procedure for pumping the foot brake, etc??

If you did, the adjustment is under the rear part of the centre console. There is a flap on the back to get to a torx screw, then remove the roof switch and unplug the wiring. Lift up the flap in teh soundproofing and you need a 13mm spanner.

[fatboyslim]

Did you follow the procedure for pumping the foot brake, etc??

If you did, the adjustment is under the rear part of the centre console. There is a flap on the back to get to a torx screw, then remove the roof switch and unplug the wiring. Lift up the flap in teh soundproofing and you need a 13mm spanner.

I did indeed,pumped the pedal till it went hard,then went for a quick drive to check all was ok
then came home pumped the pedal a few more times then tried the handbrake

[Capncol]

New pads on old discs may take 50 - 60 miles or more to bed in. Wait til then, and you may well find H/brake adjusts up by itself. Don't adust cable by hanbrake lever until pads have fully bedded in.

[fatboyslim]

New pads on old discs may take 50 - 60 miles or more to bed in. Wait til then, and you may well find H/brake adjusts up by itself. Don't adust cable by hanbrake lever until pads have fully bedded in.

Is that the same for new discs and pads??

[Capncol]

Not really. Should bed in within a half a dozen or so firm brake applications from say, 30mph.
What make of pads did you use.

[fatboyslim]

Not really. Should bed in within a half a dozen or so firm brake applications from say, 30mph.
What make of pads did you use.

Discs and pads were both Apec