I was driving down the motorway when suddenly all the electrics failed and the engine stopped - nearly causing a pile up !
Luckily I mangaed to pull over to the hard shoulder.
The battery was completely drained and all the lights were dim.
There was a smell of electrical burning from under the bonnet, around where the alternator is located.
The AA came to tow the vehicle, but before doing so connected a battery to try and start the engine.
The engine started but a grinding noise came from under the bonnet.
The AA mechanic put his hand on the alternator and said it was red hot.
We therefore thought it could be a faulty alternator.
I have since taken the alternator off and recharged the battery.
To confirm the alternator was at fault, I put the battery back on the car and started the engine to ensure the grinding noise had stopped.
But then things got really wierd.....
Before I got chance to turn the key to the crank position, the engine started !
It started as soon as I turned the key to the ignition position - it should only start when turn the key to the crank position !
The engine ran but a loud grinding noise came from under the bonnet - it appears that the alternator still turns even though the engine has started, which is what makes the grinding noise.
I thought it could be the starter motor solenoid, but then surely the starter motor would turn as soon as the battery is connected ?
3 wires are used for the starter motor, a permanent battery positive, a permanent ground, and a wire from the ignition key.
Becuase there are permant feeds to the starter motor, if it were faulty then surely it would start as soon as the battery is connected ?
So I thought it must be something to do with the wire to the ignition switch.
This wire from the ignition switch should supply +V to the starter motor, only when the key is turned to the crank position.
So I thought the ignition key switch must be faulty.
I removed the ignition key switch and checked it with a meter.
Refering to the Haynes Manual wiring diagram, the ignition switch appears to be working correctly.
Pins 1 and 3 on the ignition switch connector are only shorted when the key is turned to the crank position.
Something wierd is going on here ????
Has anyone else had this problem or know what could be wrong ?
All electrics failed - now starter motor always operates
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reap
- Posts: 520
- Joined: Fri Jun 11, 2004 10:18 pm
The engine ran but a loud grinding noise came from under the bonnet - it appears that the alternator still turns even though the engine has started, which is what makes the grinding noise.
??????????? do you mean starter?not alternator??
what year car you got bud? and engine size?
maybe able to help?.
??????????? do you mean starter?not alternator??
what year car you got bud? and engine size?
maybe able to help?.
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skyrat
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2006 9:00 am
Yeh sorry my mistake !
I do mean starter motor and NOT alternator.
...The engine ran but a loud grinding noise came from under the bonnet - it appears that the STARTER MOTOR still turns even though the engine has started, which is what makes the grinding noise...
The Peugoet 206 is...
- a 1.1 ltr engine
- year is a T reg. (1999)
It would be great if you could help.
This problem has got me well confused !
I was going to try starting the engine again, then disconnecting the lead from the starter.
I just dont understand how the engine is starting when the key is only in the ignition position (before its even been turned to the crank position) ???
Please help !
I do mean starter motor and NOT alternator.
...The engine ran but a loud grinding noise came from under the bonnet - it appears that the STARTER MOTOR still turns even though the engine has started, which is what makes the grinding noise...
The Peugoet 206 is...
- a 1.1 ltr engine
- year is a T reg. (1999)
It would be great if you could help.
This problem has got me well confused !
I was going to try starting the engine again, then disconnecting the lead from the starter.
I just dont understand how the engine is starting when the key is only in the ignition position (before its even been turned to the crank position) ???
Please help !
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reap
- Posts: 520
- Joined: Fri Jun 11, 2004 10:18 pm
only thing i can suggest is to things
1- on nsf of car under airbox there is a screw on aero connector,tis not uncommon for the connector to get water ingress and corroding the connector pins causing the cooling fan to back feed a live to ignition switch,unscrew and check.
2- remove front bumper trim,to gain access to cooling fan and its realys(hidden behind box)
lower relay of the to.pull out and check the pins for corosion,also the relay connector.check the wires going into it for water damage +green fuzz and rotten cables.
these are common probs ,doing one tday which kept engine running even when you take ignition key out .
the cooling fan is the only consumer to have a perminant feed straight to the ignition.
me take pics tmrrw of said relay and wires and post them here for you to see.
other than that id say was a switch fault?
is your car multiplexed?
hope this helps?
1- on nsf of car under airbox there is a screw on aero connector,tis not uncommon for the connector to get water ingress and corroding the connector pins causing the cooling fan to back feed a live to ignition switch,unscrew and check.
2- remove front bumper trim,to gain access to cooling fan and its realys(hidden behind box)
lower relay of the to.pull out and check the pins for corosion,also the relay connector.check the wires going into it for water damage +green fuzz and rotten cables.
these are common probs ,doing one tday which kept engine running even when you take ignition key out .
the cooling fan is the only consumer to have a perminant feed straight to the ignition.
me take pics tmrrw of said relay and wires and post them here for you to see.
other than that id say was a switch fault?
is your car multiplexed?
hope this helps?
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skyrat
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2006 9:00 am
Thanks reap,
Ive since put the battery on again and cut the wire from the ignition switch to the starter motor solenoid.
The engine still started in the ignition position even though the wire from the ignition switch to the starter motor solenoid had been cut.
After messing around some more the battery quickly died.
I noticed that the starter kept trying to turn (with what battery power was left) even when the ignition key was in the off position.
After a few seconds of the ignition key being turned to off, I can hear a relay click and the starter motor stops trying to turn.
Its as if this relay (on a timer) controls the feed to the solenoid ?
If there is a relay controlling the power feed to the starter motor, then Im starting to wonde if the solenoid is sticking, especially with the cold weather.
I really dont trust the Haynes Manual wiring diagram at all !
Do you have a wiring diagram (not Haynes) for the Peugeot 206 ?
Or do you know where I can get one ?
Ive since put the battery on again and cut the wire from the ignition switch to the starter motor solenoid.
The engine still started in the ignition position even though the wire from the ignition switch to the starter motor solenoid had been cut.
After messing around some more the battery quickly died.
I noticed that the starter kept trying to turn (with what battery power was left) even when the ignition key was in the off position.
After a few seconds of the ignition key being turned to off, I can hear a relay click and the starter motor stops trying to turn.
Its as if this relay (on a timer) controls the feed to the solenoid ?
If there is a relay controlling the power feed to the starter motor, then Im starting to wonde if the solenoid is sticking, especially with the cold weather.
I really dont trust the Haynes Manual wiring diagram at all !
Do you have a wiring diagram (not Haynes) for the Peugeot 206 ?
Or do you know where I can get one ?