Advice please!!
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Derek
- Posts: 5541
- Joined: Thu Dec 06, 2001 1:00 am
- Location: West Lothian, Scotland
if it reduced fuel consumption by 13% then i think everyone would be using it - as they don't then i guess it doesn't :rolleyes:
Derek
206CC 2.0SE Owner 2001 to 2004 - 308CC GT Owner 2010 to 2011 - Now RCZ GT 200BHP Owner
[img]http://www.ecosse-peugeot.co.uk/images/ecosse_logo.gif[/img] Peugeot Specialists: http://www.ecosse-peugeot.co.uk
206CC 2.0SE Owner 2001 to 2004 - 308CC GT Owner 2010 to 2011 - Now RCZ GT 200BHP Owner
[img]http://www.ecosse-peugeot.co.uk/images/ecosse_logo.gif[/img] Peugeot Specialists: http://www.ecosse-peugeot.co.uk
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Alex LS
- Posts: 1895
- Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2002 1:00 am
- Location: Slough, UK
If you run your engine with no oil you deserve everything you getWell put it this way m8 ,its got to be better than bare metal.
I did. Didn't notice much difference.It would be nice to see if anyone else has used Slick 50 in there engines in the past, and what they thought of it.
Do you not trust oil companies then?Im not claiming to Know all the ins and outs of ptfe based products, all i know is i can see the improvement when i use slick 50 and there are less metalic particles when it comes to dropping the oil.
Umm, it can and it has. Pay particular attention to the bit about what actually happens when you *start* the engine. This is the point at which 85% of engine wear occurs and involves acid etching the cylinders. This acid is dissipated by oil - something that cannot happen as efficiently if the oil is slipping off Teflon-coated parts.At the end of the day its just One argument that cant be won, it hasnt been proven that it acually harms the Engine
Put it this way. If Shell/Mobil/Castrol/etc have decided not to stick Teflon in any of their products then I'd guess that at best they've found no improvement and at worst they've found it's detrimental.
We have a bod on this forum who knows these things anyway. Let's see what he says if he gets around to it.
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Derek
- Posts: 5541
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- Location: West Lothian, Scotland
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samwise
- Posts: 226
- Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:24 am
- Location: SE16, London
Hang on, don't go yet, I want to join in!
The only information I could find about testing and slick 50 was a mention of a report comissioned by their marketing company.
It did show an increase in power and better fuel economy but also showed double the wear rate and a pressure drop across the filter (concerns that it may block things).
http://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/oil-additives.php
I think the other thing to keep in mind is that Slick 50 was introduced in 1978 and might not be so relevent to car engines today (better oils and filters).
Personally, like many other products in the Auto world, I think Slick 50 prays on some people's excessive desire to look after their cars. My old Rover had 115K on the clock when I sold it and was still going strong. My friends 1.3 Suzuki Swift is now on 240K with only the piston rings done at 170K. Just how long do you want your engine to last for!
The only information I could find about testing and slick 50 was a mention of a report comissioned by their marketing company.
It did show an increase in power and better fuel economy but also showed double the wear rate and a pressure drop across the filter (concerns that it may block things).
http://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/oil-additives.php
I think the other thing to keep in mind is that Slick 50 was introduced in 1978 and might not be so relevent to car engines today (better oils and filters).
Personally, like many other products in the Auto world, I think Slick 50 prays on some people's excessive desire to look after their cars. My old Rover had 115K on the clock when I sold it and was still going strong. My friends 1.3 Suzuki Swift is now on 240K with only the piston rings done at 170K. Just how long do you want your engine to last for!
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trooperzz
- Posts: 38
- Joined: Sun Jun 01, 2003 3:32 pm
- Location: Northumberland
I never thought that i could get up so many ppls noses just because i use Slick 50 along with god Knows how many millions of Slick 50 users.
You can have as many Bods as you like talk about it m8 it wont change my mind.
And by the way "You Do Trust Oil Companies" LMAO at the billions they fleece from Car owners.
You can have as many Bods as you like talk about it m8 it wont change my mind.
And by the way "You Do Trust Oil Companies" LMAO at the billions they fleece from Car owners.
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Cappy
- Posts: 475
- Joined: Sun Apr 13, 2003 10:40 am
- Location: Swindon
I used to be a car mechanic and I never heard using this made that much difference, you should be careful as adding these kinds of additives into your engine oil can invalidate the cars warranty.
As for the oil change I aggree with everyone else its pointless, if it was needed then the service intervals would be shorter.
Also the oil that is in the car has been tested to the recommended service intervals so an oil change to a different make should not be recommended.
As for the oil change I aggree with everyone else its pointless, if it was needed then the service intervals would be shorter.
Also the oil that is in the car has been tested to the recommended service intervals so an oil change to a different make should not be recommended.
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trooperzz
- Posts: 38
- Joined: Sun Jun 01, 2003 3:32 pm
- Location: Northumberland
I used to be a car mechanic and I never heard using this made that much difference, you should be careful as adding these kinds of additives into your engine oil can invalidate the cars warranty.
(About the Warranty Issue) Check the site out, when its up that is.
www.slick50.com
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Alex LS
- Posts: 1895
- Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2002 1:00 am
- Location: Slough, UK
Well the site's not up, but if it's talking about manufacturers not being able to invalidate warranties (like the K&N filter site), that only applies to the US. Warranties in the EU/UK aren't regulated in the same way. Manufacturers don't even have to give a warranty, but they are instead regulated by Sale of Goods regulations. This does give them the right to invalidate warranties if you don't follow instructions regarding servicing, oil changes & additives, air/oil filters etc.
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Rum Tum Tugger
- Posts: 29
- Joined: Thu Oct 24, 2002 4:23 pm
Teflon is a solid, not a liquid so how exactly is this going to help your engine? The reason it says on the back of the bottle to shake it before use is because all of the little bits of teflon sink to the bottom of the bottle.
All this stuff does is clog the oilfilter and oilways in your engine.
Big oil companies spend millions and millions of pounds in research and development of their oils, do you really think some little company is going to be able to improve on them by adding little bits of teflon?
The running without oil test isn't really that amazing, any engine which is worn will be able to do this for a certain amount of time before seizing.
All this stuff does is clog the oilfilter and oilways in your engine.
Big oil companies spend millions and millions of pounds in research and development of their oils, do you really think some little company is going to be able to improve on them by adding little bits of teflon?
The running without oil test isn't really that amazing, any engine which is worn will be able to do this for a certain amount of time before seizing.
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lastvts
- Posts: 118
- Joined: Thu Jun 26, 2003 5:33 am
Teflon is supposed to be excellent for car engines due to its anti oil retention, acid and friction properties. However it needs to be applied correctly. You don't want a filter full of Teflon!
At then end of the day Unless someone wants to correct me, but no one on this forum works in a testing plant for an engine, oils or "slick 50" manufacturer. I have personally been advised by people in the "know" that fully synthetic oils have been proven to have greater advantages over mineral oils and can last as long as 50k miles without having any adverse affects to engine life. Changing oil after the car has "run in" is advisable. Yes I know garages say you don't need to run new cars in. But car salesmen are there to sell cars and technicians are there to repair faults. Next time they say this, question them as it is not just engine components that need initial time to settle and "bed in". Brake discs, gearbox and other suspension components also require a certain amount of care in the first few months of running.
Think of it this way formula 1-engine builders will polish/ port engine components to give better performance. This is a labour intense excersise that manufacturers are not going to waste money on. When you run an engine in you are pretty much polishing the internal pistons rings and cylinders. The residues of which build up in the oil and filter. Hence the best way to run a car in is to take it slow for the first few hundred miles using variable speed and driving environments. Over rev rather than allow the car to struggle and just before you change the oil for the first time give it a bit of a blast.
This is what I was told by a x-railway engineer working in an engine testing station. Other information came from a current employee at a castrol testing plant.
At then end of the day Unless someone wants to correct me, but no one on this forum works in a testing plant for an engine, oils or "slick 50" manufacturer. I have personally been advised by people in the "know" that fully synthetic oils have been proven to have greater advantages over mineral oils and can last as long as 50k miles without having any adverse affects to engine life. Changing oil after the car has "run in" is advisable. Yes I know garages say you don't need to run new cars in. But car salesmen are there to sell cars and technicians are there to repair faults. Next time they say this, question them as it is not just engine components that need initial time to settle and "bed in". Brake discs, gearbox and other suspension components also require a certain amount of care in the first few months of running.
Think of it this way formula 1-engine builders will polish/ port engine components to give better performance. This is a labour intense excersise that manufacturers are not going to waste money on. When you run an engine in you are pretty much polishing the internal pistons rings and cylinders. The residues of which build up in the oil and filter. Hence the best way to run a car in is to take it slow for the first few hundred miles using variable speed and driving environments. Over rev rather than allow the car to struggle and just before you change the oil for the first time give it a bit of a blast.
This is what I was told by a x-railway engineer working in an engine testing station. Other information came from a current employee at a castrol testing plant.