206 ignition barrel, Easy to replace?

[IanL]

Was referring to the £200 one.

[FriendlyGiant]

Will aquire this product over the weekend, And until then keep sifting through youtube tuts!

Cheers guys

FG

[Artermis]

Dam no not £600 more like £100 to £200 for now, As for not knowing about the steering lock I have only been a driver for around 6/7 months and First car I had was a 96 fiesta and that never had a steering lock ignition issue, Glad you had a tickle and it goes to show my level of knowledge about motors :/, A few years from now tho I might know a thing or two

Cheers Art Ill check out some bits at argos, If I was to get the £600 Hilka set, Would that provide me with all I ever need for a car?

FG

Argos Item Number: 1872220 This looks to be a good deal and starter set?

mate, hope you've not taken offence as it wasn't meant like that at all. Definitely laughing with you - it's completely the sort of thing I'd do!!

I turned 30 yesterday; it will be about two weeks from now 13 years ago I got my first car. I was at college and went on to go through law school. I simply didn't have the money to pay garage repairs so if it went wrong I was forced to learn for myself and quickly, with the help of internet forms. Youtube wasnt anything like as comprehensive back then either.

You'll soon pick it up and pretty quickly too, dont sweat it. Spanner turning is spanner turning, once you begin to gain your confidence and a bit of experience you'll soon be able to tackle most basic jobs.

You'll soon learn that just like us people, cars are pretty much 99.9% identical to each other, it's the 0.1% that makes them look and sound different! They all work in broadly the same way, just like you samsung phone does all the same things your iPhone will do, even if their software or hardware is designed or laid out just a bit different it still does the same thing in the end!

That argos tool kit - looks the biz. It's got a socket set, some spanners and some screwdrivers, so has the basics covered! Has torx bits too which are very necessary on european cars.

Some tips for you - get a can of WD40. If you're going to undo a nut that is being tight or looks covered in muck or rust, make sure you give the threads a quick brush with that wire brush and a quick squirt of WD40 - believe me it'll help. Dont be afraid to go back and forth on something (loosen a bit, tighten a bit) until you get it working free.

For really bad cases there is such a thing as penetrating oil - you have to give several applications of this over time to get best use but WD40 is a basic cleaner and lubricant that'll get you out of a lot of binds.

Use the right tool for the job. What I mean is if you're undoing an 8mm or 10mm bolt or nut, use the smallest of your ratchets or the spanner. The spanners are smaller so you have less leverage on them, likewise a smaller ratchet handle will give you less leverage. It's better to use a smaller ratchet or the spanner and decide that it's stuck than to use the massive ratchet handle and snap it. It's always better to have a part stuck on the car youd like to get off than break a part off the car then not be able to get it or the replacement back on!

Basically put if it's a small bolt you can't do it too tight or you'll snap it. A bigger bolt is harder to snap, of course.

Likewise when you're tightening up a bolt or nut, if it's a smaller bolt or nut, use the smaller ratchet or spanner, so you don't over tighten it - again you dont want to break it or strip the threads out (meaning the bolt never tightens up ever again).

some simple guidance for the tools you have - dont torque a bolt or nut using ratchet spanners - always 'crack off' the nut or bolt (i.e. get it initially free) before continuing with the ratchet spanner. Likewise feel free to tightening up with the ratchet spanner but for the final turn or so, torque with a conventional spanner. You'll stress the ratchet mechanism if you try too hard on them. THen it'll either break or slip and you can bet your bottom dollar you'll crack or hand on something hard and sharp when it gives!

Watch out for the torx bolts - they'll like allen headed bolts bit in more of a star shape. You need to use a bigger size than you'd possibly immediately assume. Until you get used to dealing with them, make sure you use the biggest size bit that you can physically fit in the bolt head. If you pick a bit and it fits, try the next size up just to make sure. You could be mistaken for thinking you'd got the right one when in fact the next size up is required. You'll understand what I mean when confronted with one!

Last thing to mention - you'll need a brake caliper wind back tool if you want to do brake pads - which being a wear and tear item will be one of your more common jobs. Dont buy one till you need one, obviously. It's a 10 quid ish tool so dont sweat it. They're not required to do front pads but make life a lot easier. You'll not be able to do rear pads without one.

Always allow plenty of time to do a job. I can do brake pads in an hour and still allow at least a morning to do them, just in case you run into bother. Be prepared to walk away and come back to it later if it starts to stress you out. You'll only break stuff and make a hash of it - causing yourself just more grief.

Good luck and have fun.

[IanL]

One thing I would add:

There's an adjustable spanner in that kit. I can't think of a circumstance where it is better to use that rather than the correctly sized spanner. It is the surest way to "round-off" a nut, so that you won't be able to get it off with anything (except, if you are lucky, the hacksaw!).

[Artermis]

One thing I would add:

There's an adjustable spanner in that kit. I can't think of a circumstance where it is better to use that rather than the correctly sized spanner. It is the surest way to "round-off" a nut, so that you won't be able to get it off with anything (except, if you are lucky, the hacksaw!).

+1 to that, very sound advice indeed. Adjustable spanners are the devil's game and you'll never win!

[FriendlyGiant]

Haha not at all art!, Appreciate alll the advice onhere from you guys and I now have my hilka starter set! early xmas present

Now need to set out some time to start having a go at small bits and bobs, Im sure its only a matter of time before I have a bit more confidence around cars and this insane toolkit! lol.

The advice about getting stressed and best bet is to walk away for a bit otherwise your end up breaking stuff!, Might have to follow this particular piece of advice to the letter sounds exactly like me with tricky business.

Cheers guys

FG

[Artermis]

Haha not at all art!, Appreciate alll the advice onhere from you guys and I now have my hilka starter set! early xmas present

Now need to set out some time to start having a go at small bits and bobs, Im sure its only a matter of time before I have a bit more confidence around cars and this insane toolkit! lol.

The advice about getting stressed and best bet is to walk away for a bit otherwise your end up breaking stuff!, Might have to follow this particular piece of advice to the letter sounds exactly like me with tricky business.

Cheers guys

FG

I had to do this on Saturday!

The wife had a crash in her CC on Friday morning... She'd only had it a week. She is fine and the car is not badly damaged, the front wing took a beating and will need replacing at some point, but for now it's just a bit dented. The wheel took the majority of the impact.

Whilst the wheel itself is still straight and balanced fine sadly the suspension arm bushes were damaged. It isn't a total loss as the arm was subject to an advisory back in may on it's MOT that the ball joint had play, so it was going to get replaced anyway. How much of the damage was done by the bump and how much was just wear and tear I'll never know but it was wife's safety involved so decided to replace.

£30 for the arm from the local motor factors.

The arm is only held on with two bots and a pinch on the hub. Unfortunately the front chassis bolt was shagged and wouldn't come off. I have the largest compressor you can run on a standard domestic power supply and even with that turned up to full chat, nothing... Eventually with all my heaving on it the head of the bolt gave up, so had to spend a good hour with a hack saw taking it off then dragging it out. royal pain in the backside.

Anyway got the old arm out and persuaded the new one in to place - bit of WD40 helped it here - and got a bolt back in it.

Of course i'm now short 1 bolt that i've just cut in half.... I don't know if all CCs are the same but it turns out the front bolt is longer than the rear one to account for the strut brace (anti-raproachment bar as Pug call it). Could i find anywhere with the right sized bolt in stock.... Balls could I!

Ended up going to the local scrap yard and taking a couple of bolts of a scrap 206. It's only at this point when I get home that I realise the bolts are a different size. I took a good rear bolt with me to compare, not noticing the fronts are longer. Some swearing happened.

So up comes the other side of the car, off comes the front bolt on the other side to drop the strut brace off. I'll leave that off temporarily until i can source the correct bolt from Peugeot, so at lest the car is mobile ish. I have a spare car so it'll not be used until sorted but can at least move it if needed.

So puts the bolts back in and carry on. Put the pinch bolt back in the hub and all is right with the world... until *click* and the punch bolt nut strips it's threads. I'm hacked off at this point as it's getting late and I'm starting to get tired and start about extracting the now useless pinch bolt again.

Stuck. Solid. Whaling on it with a hammer and all my strength, nothing. After whacking myself in the hand with a hammer and muttering under my breath that a can of petrol and a box of matches would probably fix my issue I gave up. Left it sat there in bits and walked away. Asked wife to pack my tools up and said I'll try again tomorrow.

Went back to it Sunday morning and probably had the bolt out after about 45 mins, including relocating and jacking the car again. Just had to keep beating on it with a hammer.

My stupidity trying to reuse a £3 pinch bolt really when i should have just replaced. What I didn't realise initially is that the bolt had been everso slightly bent by something at some point, so a bent peg in a straight hole just didn't wanna go. Costly mistake for me in terms of time and job difficulty.

but at least it's now done.

Then i made the mistake of taking it to quick fit to get the wheel alignment done - a must do after suspension work. The wheel was cocked to the right and it pulled slightly. Quick fit say they sorted the alignment but now the wheel is cocked left, it pulls left and the ASR/ESP system has faulted out, so they've managed to upset it.

Still, they're going to fix it today (Monday) with any luck. It's probably annoyed the steering angle sensor and wants a reset but they messed it up so they'll put it right.

[FriendlyGiant]

Argghhh dam art!, This is the exact scenario I see myself in, And honestly I never want to be there!, Sorry to hear about all the hassle you have had with the accident your wife had, But it does go to prove the "walking away for a bit" does help! lol.

Heres to quikfit sorting your issues with none other arising.

FG

[Capncol]

Hope you didn't use std 206 arms???

[Artermis]

Argghhh dam art!, This is the exact scenario I see myself in, And honestly I never want to be there!, Sorry to hear about all the hassle you have had with the accident your wife had, But it does go to prove the "walking away for a bit" does help! lol.

Heres to quikfit sorting your issues with none other arising.

FG

well by the time id finished beating on it this is what the pinch bolt looked like haha

Yes Col, i used the gti arms.

i now have 2 poorly cars to contend with a my Audi A8 V8 turbo has thrown up a boost sensor fault. happy christmas!