Toasted 206 return to former glory

[Enright]

mate service box is the dogs danglies
When you've logged in and entered your VIN number in the top left box with VIN/VIS in then click 'OK'
A new list appears under there if you click on 'CHARACTERISTICS' a whole list comes up which tells you everything about your car
Anyways to find the price of something is easy, you find the part you need in the exploded diagram
Then go to the description list to the right you'll see that as you move your cursor over the description they turn blue and the number of the part in the diagram turns blue also
When you're sure it's that part if you double click the description,on the main page of service box on the upper right side is a box which says 'PARTS' and 'LABOUR' at the top,after double clicking the part description you should see that the part number appears in this box by magic!!
Close the diagram pop-up and on the main page scroll to the top and you should see a shopping trolley type icon( top-right) it'll say 'order parts' when you put your cursor on it, click this
A new page comes up which asks for your details (ignore this unless you DO have an account somewhere)
There's four symbols at the top one looks like a person and car,spanner and piece of paper,SHOPPING BASKET and piece of paper in an envelope
Click on the shopping basket and a list comes up which has all your part numbers,description and prices on it,it even tells you the non-VAT price and the VAT included price
It also warns you that these prices are only Pugs recommended price,so you may end up paying a bit more or less,the few times I've looked on Service box for prices the dealer in Newark has usually charged less!!

I've just given that VIN number a go in Service Box, and you're right - it IS the dog's danglies!

I think the car is just about ready to go now - in fact I'm surprised it hasn't started already, but it seems to be stuck in "Economy Mode". I've tried the reset procedure a few times but without success. Whether this is due to a missing or dodgy connection, or whether the BSI is corrupted is beyond me. I'm trying to find a local "Peugeot Planet" guru to help me with diagnostics.

The job list now looks like this:

Priority Jobs:
* Replace BSI/Repair Electrical Fault
* Check Oil Level, Replace Oil & Filter
* Repair Broken Plugs (N/S/F Indicator & O/S/F Foglamp)
* Replace Timing Belt Cover & Check Timing Belt

To Do List:
* Check/Clear Fault Codes (after startup)
* Replace Antifreeze & check for leaks (after startup)
* Check Brakes/ABS (after startup)
* Check Headlamp Beam Alignment (after startup)

Shopping List:
* Windscreen (inc Rain-X)
* N/S/F & O/S/F Tyres
* MoT Test
Bonnet
N/S Wing
N/S Mirror Glass
O/S Mirror Shroud
Bonnet Latch Switch
Oil Filter Cover
PAS Pipe
BSI Plastic Latch
Recharge Aircon
Spare Key & Fob
Owner's Handbook

Completed Jobs:
Check Alternator Belt
Clean Bodywork, T-Cut, Polish & Rain-X Windows
Clean Engine Bay (WD40 & Jetwash), Interior (Cockpit Shine) & Boot
Clean Wheels, Check & Re-paint Brake Calipers (Black Smoothrite)
* Repair Driver's Seat Mechanism
* Replace Accelerator Pedal & Pedal Covers
* Replace Aircon Pipes (Inc Seals)
* Replace Air Intake Pipe & Air Filter Housing
* Replace Battery Tray, Clamp, Cover & Battery
Replace Bonnet Release Cable
* Replace Blown Bulbs (N/S/F Cluster & Multi-function Display)
Replace Bumper Trim Strip (Black EXL Spray)
* Replace N/S Headlamp Levelling Motor & Bulbs
Replace Roof Button
* Replace Clutch Slave Cylinder, Grommet & Pipe, Bleed Brakes & Clutch
Replace Dipstick
Replace Earth Lead
* Replace Engine Bolt-ons (Oil Pressure Sensor, T'stat Housing & Temp Sensor, Lambdas, Crank Pos Sensor, Pipe/Wiring Mountings, Spark Plug Cover)
* Replace Fuel Pipe
Replace Fusebox Cover
* Replace Gearbox End Cover, Gasket & Oil
* Replace Number Plates
* Replace Oil Pressure Switch & Filter Assembly
* Replace PAS Pipe, Pump Cap, Pump Cover and Fluid
* Replace Radiator, Water Hoses & Bottle
Replace Radiator Grille & Middle Bumper Fastener
* Replace Screenwash Pipework
Replace Sound-Proofing & fixings
* Replace Starter Motor
* Replace 2 Wheel Nuts
* Replace Windscreen Wiper Motor & Trim Panel
* Replace Wiring Harnesses (Engine & Main)
Haynes & Workshop Manual on CD

In fact 2 more tasks should be nailed tonight, because I've managed to find a pair of electric mirrors for £30.
All I need to do is mix and match bits from them to repair the ones on the CC (which is do-able).

[fatboyslim]

In fact 2 more tasks should be nailed tonight, because I've managed to find a pair of electric mirrors for £30.
All I need to do is mix and match bits from them to repair the ones on the CC (which is do-able).

I asked on another forum if this was possible and was told no!!
Be interested to see what you come up with

[Enright]

In fact 2 more tasks should be nailed tonight, because I've managed to find a pair of electric mirrors for £30.
All I need to do is mix and match bits from them to repair the ones on the CC (which is do-able).

I asked on another forum if this was possible and was told no!!
Be interested to see what you come up with

Crikey, I must have achieved the impossible (on both sides) then!!!
It’s a bit of a Chinese puzzle, and required some modification, but only a little – 2 small points to be precise.
If I had known it was such a hot topic I would have taken pictures as I did it, but I’ll try to go through the steps from memory:

Disassembly:
1. Remove your mirror assembly from the car.
2. Remove the mirror glass. This is just secured by 4 clips that attach it to the motor-assembly and it simply pops off, but it feels like a bit of a strain, so watch out. Don’t forget to pull apart the heated element terminals (if present).
3. Take the painted trim cover off the top. To do this you have to get a thin blade inside the front edge and lever it gently upwards until it pops off, but be gentle, because the clips that hold it to the main body are very fragile. I had to use double-sided number plate tape upon reassembly of one of mine.
4. The cover you have just removed reveals 2 torx screws at the top, and there are 2 more on the bottom face as well. Remove them all.
5. There are also 3 really small-headed torx screws by the motors which must come out.
6. Now the motor assembly should be free. The rear cover of it pulls off, and then you can remove the 3 terminal plug.
7. With the motor out, the main cover should lift off. Note the routing of the wiring – take a pic if necessary.
8. The last 3 torx screws that you need to remove hold the triangular-shaped piece on the bottom face to the bottom of the mirror assembly’s main pivot point. 2 are easily seen but recessed fairly deeply, and one is hidden by an oval foam/rubber grommet.
9. Once the 3 screws in “8.” are out, the triangular-shaped bottom piece and the pivot mechanism will be released from what I will call the “shoulder”, and you can thread the wires out of it.

The most easily broken parts are the main body and the triangular-shaped bottom piece.
I think that the main body is a common part, but the pivot mechanism which is part of the bottom triangular-shaped piece differs slightly, and it is this from your donor assembly which needs a bit of modification in order to fit.
When you try to match this part to the shoulder from your car, you will see that while the diameters are identical, the bit that does the swivelling has an extra bit to it around the radius. This needs to be cut off (I used a serrated spamspam knife which worked fine), but leave the “spokes” at either end of it because they neatly fit into 2 notches on the shoulder.
The only other mod is that there is a small triangular lug that sticks up from the aluminium part of the shoulder joint. I used an angle-grinder to flatten this off.
Now you should find that the shoulder joint all fits together neatly.
After that you can work your way back up from “8.” To “1.” – the only difference you may find is that you have to run the wires from the shoulder through the middle of the pivot.

Best thing is to try to keep the mixing and matching of bits to a minimum – I dismantled 4 mirrors at once and thoroughly confused myself!

[Enright]

The following was a really helpful and detailed reply - I was just a bit concerned that I had opened up something that was taking the thread way off the original topic and which would be of no interest to other readers. So I thought that it would be well worth copying the post into here before responding.
Hope you don't mind.

Word of caution.
How do you know the second hand units haven't also been blown due the above lack of knowledge. Also S/H units may not have all the options applicable to your car coded into it? (Can be done with PP)
If you go down the secondhand route, you will also need the keys from the doner vehicle too.

I would go the repair route personally. Just had a Citroen one done.

It's a good point, and I had asked myself the same question. But I was thinking that I could either check with them first that it was working properly and that I could return it if it didn't work (if I decided to get one from my local Pug breaker, who I'm on pretty good terms with).
Or, if I went for one from a car that's being broken privately on eBay, I would ensure that I saw it working first, and then shut it down properly myself. Just getting it running is the priority, and options can be programmed in later if necessary.
As far as the keys are concerned, I was under the impression that you only need the little transponder chip out of the key fob for it to work, then can leave the rest of the key and fob to be sold with the lock set and alarm. Is that not correct?

BTW.
I noticed when you collected your car it was on a dolly.
Not sure if you are aware that is illegal. Dollies are for recovery only and subject to different laws than a trailer (transportation) The Police tend to turn a blind eye, but I know this has led to insurance problems if you have an accident while towing.

Here it is chapter and verse. I'm not preaching, but you should be aware. especially if you are towing it to a dealer. Cheers Col.

Q. What is a trailer?
A. A road vehicle, usually (but not necessarily) two wheeled, towed by a motor vehicle.Given the above dictionary definition, it is fairly clear that anything attached to the towball and having wheels in contact with the ground is a trailer. This includes cars on ‘A’ frames and dollies. Bearing in mind that the unbraked towing limit of 750 kgs refers to Maximum Gross Weight (i.e. the figure on the towed cars VIN plate) and not to actual weight, it severely restricts the options. The only cars I know of with a MGW of less than 750 kgs is the Aixam range. These are around 450 to 550 kgs.

There are strict regulations on braked trailers and, whilst a braked ‘A’ frame attached to a towed car constitutes a braked trailer, it is not legal for transportation as it cannot comply with EC71/320 .With car dollies, the situation is somewhat different. Under regulation 83 of the Road Vehicles (construction & Use) Regulations 1986 (SI.1986/1078) Amending Regulations, a car dolly, with a car in place, will be considered as two trailers. This is legal for recovery but, under the Road Traffic Regulations Act 1984 (Schedule 6) the combination is limited to 40 mph on motorways and dual carriageways and 20 mph elsewhere.

Note that there is a very specific difference between recovery and transportation. Recovery is the removal of a broken down vehicle to a place of safety. It does not include removing a rotor arm (for instance) and travelling the length and breadth of the country. The police are well aware of the difference due to the regulations covering Tachographs and Operators Licences. Recovery vehicles are exempt.

I'd found various bits of information with regards to towing (although none were as concise as that), and come to the conclusion that the only way to get the car transported to me legally was to either pay someone with a recovery truck to do it, or hire a Tranny van and a proper car trailer. There wouldn't have been much difference in cost by the time I'd added the fuel.
All things considered, I knew it was a risk, but people I spoke to said that as long as it looked as though I wasn't taking the Mickey (e.g. had a proper number-plate and light board, and wasn't driving stupidly), I shouldn't attract any undue attention.
But there were a lot of legal issues involved:
As the towed vehicle wasn't taxed, NO wheels should have been on the road. Even with just 1 wheel touching the ground it could have been siezed and crushed.
However if I had hired a trailer, I would have been pulling more than the weight of the car that I was driving, and just about double the towing capacity of it, which would have been dangerously unstable.
The clarification IS appreciated, and I'm not trying to be a smartarse with all the answers. Furthermore, I'm certainly not planning on hauling it (or any other cars) about anywhere else - it was scary enough just the once!

[Capncol]

You need the transponder for the imobiliser, but you need the rest of the plastic bit of the key for the remote lock/unlock bit which is coded to the BSI. The only bit you don't need is the key blade itself.

Regarding the towing. I wasn't trying to do the suck eggs thingy, merely that most people I know with "A" frames and dollies, aren't aware of the legalities, so only trying to keep you out of trouble.



Cheers

[Enright]

Wow, is it really over a week since I last posted any pics?!? You'll be thinking that I've got bored and packed in!

I replaced the front and rear timing covers last night, which was a ballache - especially when the camshafts pinged round and mucked up the timing. After that I had to jack the car up, remove a wheel, take a spark plug out to find TDC... all outside the neighbour's garage. As a result I didn't get finished until 12.30am!

Still, other than a couple of replacement connectors, all of the jobs which I can do with the parts I've got are now done. Shame it won't start, but it's an opportunity to get familiar with Peugeot Planet 2000 and then maybe get on the PP Map as a local contact.

[Enright]

I'm currently confounded by technology - or a lack of!
The car has not moved at all since my last post (apart from backwards and forwards a bit on the starter motor).
I've downloaded and installed Peugeot Planet 2000 on my laptop, which involved adding a whole new operating system to it as a "virtual computer", rather than uninstalling Vista and replacing it with Windows XP. this is because the PP2000 software only works on an XP based system - bloody marvellous.
I've also sourced the PP2000 interface leads, and they are on their way over to me from (of all places), Spain. But until they arrive I can't do anything. I need both the software and the hardware to reset my ECU/BSI. Here's hoping Spain's postal system, along with the rest of the country, doesn't go bankrupt!
There's a replacement key in the post to me. But it'll just be a paperweight until the leads arrive to be able to programme it.
Lisa's even put a spending block on the replacement windscreen and panels until the car has started - "what's the point of throwing money at an inanimate object? What if you can't get it going? Who would want to buy a car that doesn't go?"
Fairy nuff I suppose, but it isn't half frustrating, especially given the previous lightning progress.

Bored of Arnold signing off for now...

[Capncol]

Whats the symptoms?

[Enright]

Stuck in "Economy Mode Active" despite being fully charged, and having tried to reset the BSI numerous times using the proper procedure.
I think the ECU's probably forgotten it's VIN, but I'm awaiting diagostic leads to be able to properly analyse and correct the issue.
Annoyingly the leads are stuck in the Post Office sorting office which is less than a mile away from home, but they won't let us have the parcel because we think the sender put the wrong name on it!
Hoping that an attempt at re-delivery on Wednesday will sort it all out.

[Capncol]

Economy will drop out when you start it. That by itself shouldn't prevent it starting, unless it hints at other BSI probs.
What did you do about the throttle miss match in the end? I'm wordering if your loom has the wrong pin outs.

[Enright]

I got the throttle pedal from the same car that the loom came out of, so I know that they match.
There were no other issues, so I hope that the pin outs haven't changed.
A diagnostics lead on it should help sort it out (I hope)!

[Enright]

Right, the blockage has been cleared, and the workshop is at long last open for business again - hooray!

Last night I finally managed to wrestle my Peugeot Planet 2000 interface and leads away from the clutches of the local Royal Mail Sorting Office. The seller had simply put down the wrong house number on the package, but as a result it had sat in limbo for 2 precious weeks, and the little Hitler there made me jump through hoops before he would release it to me.

Having the interface in my possession allowed me to finish the setup of the hardware and software on my laptop, and get it plugged into the car. It's very impressive - you can test almost every system in the car by remote. It's quite odd to be able to make your speedo go off the clock with just the click of a mouse! I also managed to inadvertently bugger up the programming of my only key, but fortunately was able to recover the situation. So in future key programming is a little local service that I might be able to offer, which should help cover the cost of the interface.

There are numerous stored faults, but at the centre of them all seems to be the problem that there is no response from the Engine ECU. It could be something as simple as a blown fuse or a broken wire, but I could never have known for sure without decent diagnostics. Next job is to trace and rectify the actual problem. Then once it's up and running, see what else it throws at me! Watch this space...

[Enright]

The ECU is definitely dead.
I should have suspected it, being as most of the wiring that surrounded it had been cooked in the fire, but last night I was able to verify it.
Now I need to find another one with the same part number and use my new interface to match it to the BSI.
Unfortunately ECU's vary massively in price. You can pay as little as £30, or as much as £300 on eBay!
The good news is that the same one was used in Citroan C2's, 3's & 4's, so I may have a reasonably large pool of scrappers to choose from.

I could use a bit of help from this forum though:
If you have a 1.6 16V from 04 onwards, and get chance to have a look under the bonnet at any point, please could you see if the part number on the ECU (in the top RH corner of the label, just under where it says "Made in Hungary") is 9652552380?
And if it is, let me know what year your car was made?

This will save me a huge amount of time when going to scrapyards to search for a replacement. Thanks!

[suegriff]

sorry not able to help you as mine 2.0 but will look up some phones numbers for you

[Capncol]

Thats the number on the black one (55 plate '06 model) Unfortunately the label is missing from the '03 ecu so can't tell you what the number is on that model.