loud bearing noise

[Steve_B]

At the end of last year my wife’s 206 cc (53 plate, 46000 miles) got a noisy bearing type sound. A test drive showed that it was speed not revs related and that the noise was still there even when coasting in neutral. It seemed to get worse when going round left bends, so I assumed that it was the front drivers side wheel bearing.

Having changed the bearing the noise is still there. Neither of the wheel bearings had, or have any play in them, so I am hesitant to swap the other.

How likely is it to be the drive shaft or diff bearings, and is there any definitive way of checking apart from just replacing them and seeing whether the noise goes?

If it is just a case of try it and see, would the other wheel bearing be the next thing to change?

Thanks, Steve.

[Capncol]

You should be able to hear & feel a noisy bearing when rotating wheels by hand. Try the other 3 wheels.

[tenpole]

Describe this sound. I have heard people proclaiming bearing faults when it is just the brake disks.

[gazza82]

Front wheel on a 206 is easy to diagnose, or any car with a strut.

As you or someone spins the wheel, put your finger tips on the spring very lightly ... if you feel a slight vibration, bearing is probably worn.

It's not so simple at the rear of the 206 because of the weird design but if you can rest your finger tips on the trailing arms near the bearing/hub it might work that way.

[Steve_B]

Thanks for the replies.

The noise sounds like bearing noise. I’m not sure how you can mistake any noise associated with the discs brakes with a bearing.

Besides what I described above (still noisy when rolling in neutral and slightly worse when more heavily loaded), the other reason for suspecting the wheel bearing is that the noise started after the car had been into a garage to have a worn locking wheel bolt removed (the key kept slipping). I wondered that if they had hammered something on to the bolt head it could have damaged the bearing.

[GrandadMonkey]

Did they replace the locking wheel bolt with a standard wheel bolt of the correct length and form? If not it could be too long and fouling the disc slightly. I'd check that out.

I had to replace all four of the locking wheel bolts on my daughter's 207 and although I had to use considerable force in knocking on undersize sockets it has not damaged any of the wheel bearings.

[Luditus]

If the "Hammer and Smash Brigade" have got to it, then there's every chance they would have stopped the car moving by putting it in gear. Seen it many times - makes me wince. Gearbox drain plug might reveal part of a tooth!

[Steve_B]

The bolt was initially replaced with a standard one, but all the locking wheel nuts have since been replaced. Just out of curiosity I’ve just checked and they are all the same length.

[Steve_B]

I thought that I’d update the thread.

I’ve been busy for the last few weeks so not had chance to look at the car. Apparently (according to the wife) the noise has got worse. When I jacked up the car and rotated the wheel the joint in the middle of the shaft was now audibly noisy; confirmed with the stick in the ear technique. Perhaps if I'd done a little more diagnostics before I might have spotted this

Hopefully if I get time at the weekend I’ll remove the drive shaft.

The next question is about the drive shaft seal on the gearbox. The Febi website lists two different ones. One described as “transmission side” part 11413, the other just as a shaft seal part 22448. Does anyone know which the correct one is? Or a source for the correct alternative?

I would have posted a link, but the forum prevented it.

Thanks in advance.

[Steve_B]

Relative serenity has returned to 206 world.

Returning to the wheel bearing, if anyone else has to replace one, you might find that the circlip is seized. The quickest way I have found to remove it is as follows.

First knock all the ball bearings out so that just the outer bearing shell remains. Next use a Dremel or similar small grinder to grind away the shell behind one of the circlip holes; you don’t need to grind right through the shell.

Once there is a gap behind the circlip hole push a small screwdriver through and lever the circlip out. As it comes out of the groove use a second screwdriver to prise behind the clip and work your way round until the whole thing is free.

[Capncol]

Glad you got it sorted.
Must admit- never had to get a circlip out like that.

[Steve_B]

I generally start by giving the end a tap. If it moves go straight to circlip pliers. If not I find the above method quicker and more successful than messing with penetrating oil or heat.