How to change front wheel bearing?

[vimas]

hi all dear
Is there any illustrate instruction for front wheel bearing replacement?would u tell me how can i do it???

[GrandadMonkey]

http://www.peugeot206cc.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=14605

If you want illustrations and a full description I'd buy a Haynes manual 4613. Less than £14 off eBay.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Haynes-Ma ... 0728820601

Welcome to the forum.

[Capncol]

This is the basics.

http://www.peugeot206cc.co.uk/viewtopic ... ub#p116740



If you still want to have a go, I can give you more details, but you will need big torque wrench, and a hydraulic or fly press unless you get a complete hub assembly.

[vimas]

really?will u?thanks a lot

[Capncol]

So, you going to have a go & want the full details?

[vimas]

yes buddy,i do.i think the hardest part is the removal of the suspension strut,is it?

[Capncol]

I will do instructions tomorrow when I'm at my computer. Not going to attempt it on my iPhone.

[vimas]

ok i'm waiting.thank u so much

[gazza82]

Just had a quick look at my Haynes, and that says to remove the swivel hub .. that's the big bit on the bottom of the strut and attached to lower arm and steering rack. How easy that is I don't know as the pinch bolt at the top holding it to the strut could be a PITA to remove. But the actual strut stays in place.

[vimas]

I'm still waiting for your help buddy!!!

[gazza82]

You could buy a Haynes manual if you are desperate ... sure Capncol has other things to do in his life (drive that gorgeous 'Vette around maybe! :-) ) ... get one with Black cover not Blue as this covers the 2.0 engine and CC extras.


Otherwise I'll scan the couple of pages on Monday and post them up ... but can't do it this weekend ... busy life mate!

PS I think the word you are looking for is "buddy" ... and "please" ...

[Capncol]

Apologies for delay.
Right. Start by jacking up car (both wheels) and suppoort on axle stands. Remove wheel on the side of the faulty wheel bearing. Replace the wheel bolts and with someone standing on the brakes, undo the large nut in the centre of the hub. Remove the pinch bolt through the bottom ball joint. There is a thread covering that here
Remove the nut from the trackrod end and using a copper / hide mallet give the joint a hefty blow to seperate it. If you use a ball joint splitter you will most likely need to replace the ball joint due to the boot becoming split.
Remove the caliper and caliper bracket from strut assembly tie caliper up to something to prevent straining the brake hose.
Remove the wheel bolts and the torx screw in the face of the disc and remove the disc from the hub. Again, you may need the copper / hide mallet to knock it off.
Unplug the ABS sensor from the wiring.

This is where I differ from the Haynes method and I will explain why later.
Remove the anti roll bar verticle link from the strut, unclip the ABS wiring and brake hose from the strut. Lift the bonnet and unbolt the top of the strut, and remove the entire strut assembly.

(alternative method) Remove the pinch bolt holding the hub assembly to the strut and remove the hub from the car.

Using a suitable press, support the hub so that the wheel flange is free to move and has enough room underneath to be removed, and from the rear press out the hub flange (the bit with the splines in it)
Remove the circlip at the rear of the bearing and now with the hub up the other way (face up) Press the old bearing out.
Give the inside of the hub a thin smear of copper grease to aid new bearing in, from the rear, press in new bearing 'til it seats.
Turn the assembly over and supporting the bearing from the rear with a short piece of steel bar slightly smallet than the outside diameter of the bearing, press the wheel flange back in place. Replace circlip with new one supplied in kit. If you don't support the bearing it will seperate so will become useless. Use a press as if you hammer a new bearing in you will risk putting tiny flat spots in the bearing leading to premature wear.

With all the turning over and aligning the bearings, I find it easier with the strut still attatched. It also save the hassle of seperating the pinch bolt and clamp that holds the strut and hub together. It's just a personal choice and this is why I take the whole assembly off.

Now just put everything back together in the reverse order to taking it apart.

Gazza. Could you look up the torque for the hub nutplease? I have written this from memory and can't remember the correct torque.

Vimas. If any of this doesn't make sense, please say.

Next time I do a wheel bearing I will do a "how to" with photos.

[vimas]

thank u so much for all your advise & kindness.but is it necessary to compress the spring with special tool or any tool that work in the same way?i mean can i use a chain for clamping the spring?if i want to clamp the spring with a chain,first of all jucking up car then clamp the spring or vice versa?

[Capncol]

Spring stays on the strut. No need for spring compressor.

[gazza82]

I'll post the hub-nut torque up tomorrow when I can get to my Haynes ... then again, not many people have one capable of the high ratings in their garage.