New clutch fitted but now no power/stalls any ideas?

[garyfromdurham]

HI

About a month ago I had my clutch replaced on the car (1.6 - 02 plate) and rear caliper fixed. It cost me almoist £500 and wiped out my savings.

I got it back and the car was was very juddery and kept cutting out.

I took it back to the garage but annoyingly it didn't do when the mechanic took it out but he said it wasn't caused as a result of the work they did and suggested that it might be the coil which would be another £100 plus. .

I don't know enough about cars to contest it and I couldn't affored the extra money.

I have had to drive it to and from work and the problem is much worse. It cuts out even when I am driving, and especially when approaching roundabouts and junctions. I have to try and rev the car as much as I can when driving in town just to keep it going and people think that I am either being impatient or trying to be a boy racer.

Often when I press the accelerator nothing happens. I pump it and it is totally flat with no power.

I need to take it back to the garage but I honestly think that they have either failed to fit a hose back or put the plugs in properly or something because it's only happened since the clutch and calipers were done.

Without some expert knowledge I can't prove anything.

It is a really good garage and the owner has always been very fair in the past so it could be that it really is not their fault but if anybody could make some suggestions on what the fault might be I would really appreciate it.

Thank you very much

Gary

[suegriff]

Hi
Could be crank sensor seening u had clutch done.

[Capncol]

I would try recalibrating throttle pedal & throttle body. If battery left disconnected for a long time, it's possible it could have "lost itself" and it's a no-cost fix. If it doesn't work, you need to put it on a diagnostic machine and read the faults / live data. Has the garage got one?


Try this

Motorised throttle housing programming procedure
• reconnect the wiring harnesses,
• switch on the ignition,
• leave the ignition on for at least 10 seconds (do not switch off the ignition
during these 10 seconds and do not press the accelerator pedal),
• switch off the ignition and leave it off for 15 seconds (the ECU records the
motorised throttle programming parameters in the EEPROM - this is the
POWER LATCH phase),
Warning: Do not switch the ignition on during these 15 seconds.
Important: If the values are not programmed:
• the system will not control the engine torque correctly as a
function of throttle opening,
The ECU will effectively not be able to precisely recognise:
• the closed and fully open positions of the throttle.
This operating fault will last until the ignition is switched off and until the
POWER LATCH sequence has finished (minimum duration = 15 seconds).
The throttle position is also programmed automatically during the engine's life
to counteract wear in the throttle's minimum end stop.
In effect, the ECU systematically compares the memorised "Limphome"
position (non controlled throttle position) with the position when the ignition is
switched on.
If this value is not equal to 300 mV, the ECU will perform the programming
procedure.
Therefore from time to time, after the end of the POWER LATCH sequence, a
clicking noise from the throttle can be heard as it comes into contact with its
end stops.
This is not an operating fault.


Pedal position sensor programming procedure


• accelerator pedal at rest,
• switch on the ignition,
• press the accelerator pedal down fully,
• release the accelerator pedal,
• start the engine without accelerating.
Important: If this programming procedure is not performed, the ECU will not be
able to precisely recognise:
• the idle position of the pedal sensor in relation to the idle position
of the accelerator pedal,
• the full load position of the pedal sensor, where this information where this information is
required to control torque requests from the driver.

[garyfromdurham]

Thanks for the suggestions Sue.

I will google it and see if the symptoms fit the problems that I have - car juddery, stalling, cutting out, no power etc.

Thanks again....appreciate it.

Gary

[Capncol]

Hi
Could be crank sensor seening u had clutch done.

Yep. Could be. Good call.
Best to code read it before blindly spending out on things he may not need. It's just as likely they have left the earth cable on the top of the gearbox a bit loose.

[garyfromdurham]

Thanks very much for the comprensive reply. That is very helpful.

I will definitely look into that.

The garage does have a diagnositc machine but the engine light wasn't illuminated when I took it in but it is now so they will be able to do it.

There was no point in taking the car back as I couldn't afford to get it fixed.

I have saved a bit of money now so if it isn't their fault and a genuine new problem hopefully I can fix it.

Thanks again

Gary

I would try recalibrating throttle pedal & throttle body. If battery left disconnected for a long time, it's possible it could have "lost itself" and it's a no-cost fix. If it doesn't work, you need to put it on a diagnostic machine and read the faults / live data. Has the garage got one?


Try this

Motorised throttle housing programming procedure
• reconnect the wiring harnesses,
• switch on the ignition,
• leave the ignition on for at least 10 seconds (do not switch off the ignition
during these 10 seconds and do not press the accelerator pedal),
• switch off the ignition and leave it off for 15 seconds (the ECU records the
motorised throttle programming parameters in the EEPROM - this is the
POWER LATCH phase),
Warning: Do not switch the ignition on during these 15 seconds.
Important: If the values are not programmed:
• the system will not control the engine torque correctly as a
function of throttle opening,
The ECU will effectively not be able to precisely recognise:
• the closed and fully open positions of the throttle.
This operating fault will last until the ignition is switched off and until the
POWER LATCH sequence has finished (minimum duration = 15 seconds).
The throttle position is also programmed automatically during the engine's life
to counteract wear in the throttle's minimum end stop.
In effect, the ECU systematically compares the memorised "Limphome"
position (non controlled throttle position) with the position when the ignition is
switched on.
If this value is not equal to 300 mV, the ECU will perform the programming
procedure.
Therefore from time to time, after the end of the POWER LATCH sequence, a
clicking noise from the throttle can be heard as it comes into contact with its
end stops.
This is not an operating fault.


Pedal position sensor programming procedure


• accelerator pedal at rest,
• switch on the ignition,
• press the accelerator pedal down fully,
• release the accelerator pedal,
• start the engine without accelerating.
Important: If this programming procedure is not performed, the ECU will not be
able to precisely recognise:
• the idle position of the pedal sensor in relation to the idle position
of the accelerator pedal,
• the full load position of the pedal sensor, where this information where this information is
required to control torque requests from the driver.

[Capncol]

Keep us posted

[garyfromdurham]

Yes I will.

I am taking it in tomorrow. I am hoping that it won't be anything too expensive.

Thanks for your help

Gary

[garyfromdurham]

Update:

I got back from the garage where they had run a diagnostics on it. It came up with a huge list mostly listing all of the misfires it had done.

The garage says I new coil pack, an infold pressure sensor (manifold was also mentioned) and they are putting on new plugs for me.

Another error message which they could not understand is an error message with the inlet air thermistor but apparently the 206 doesn't have this.

They are ordering the parts and it's going to be £195

Do you think that this is unrelated to them fitting a new clutch for me?

I think it's time to say goodbye to the car once it's fixed as I have already spent almost £500 on it in the last 30 days and then this £195. Ive got no more money to spend on it.

Thanks for all your advice. It has been incredibly helpful.

Gary

[Capncol]

I would start with just the coil pack. You could buy the parts and do it yourself. I would ignore the Map sensor at the moment (Manifold pressure sensor) as that's probably spurious. If the coil pack is causing missfire, why change the plugs? Coil pack £65 ish.

EDIT: Just a thought, if they are on about a new manifold, they haven't broken it removing the gearbox have they? Listen for hissing from the back of the engine while idling.

[suegriff]

Hi
I have some secondhand sensors from throttle body Part( mmm amazing wot u pick up from the breaker yard near me, it fell in to my pocket) no gonna say it could be right part number but.. its worth a try.