Auto unlock boot on 2003 mux model, anyone done it?

[slimgym]

I'd quite like to have the boot operate with the keyfob as the doors do.

There are two sets of instructions on the web, here and here, but both apply to pre-mux models, and both detail running a cable from the BSI1 in the footwell to the mechanism. So on these models the impulse comes from this BSI but I think more likely on the mux one that it's a signal sent to a closer CPU.

Anyone done it?

[SurreyEd_28]

Nope, but I'd like to !!!!

There must be an *easy* way of doing it

[Robby_bobby_boo]

It would be a really good thing to do, but those websites might as well be in german for all the good they did me

Its really worrying playing about with the brain on these cars, you must have understood the website so perhaps you could answer this question to help me look into the possibilities.......

Do they say whether there is an unlock motor already in the boot lock area? I think there must be as it seems to lock automatically when you lock the car.
If this is the case then chances are the wiring could be modified to make it unlock as well as lock, potentially by just tapping into the door wiring to give it a pulse when the door unlocks as well as when it locks.

if you let me know the gist of the article or what you know so far I will happily look into it a bit further, the worst that can happen is I burn the whole car out!

[slimgym]

Do they say whether there is an unlock motor already in the boot lock area? I think there must be as it seems to lock automatically when you lock the car.
I beleive the scenario is the lock/unlock actuator requires +12v on one pin and ground on the other to lock, and ground/+12v the other way around to unlock. On a normal 206 two wires go from the BSI to the actuator which will lock and unlock the boot. On the CC, they connect the "lock" side only and ground the other side (or that's what seems to be suggested here anyway). So to rejuvinate the feature you need to run the other wire which on a normal 206 would connect to the other side of the actuator. It seems odd they didn't use the same wiring and have it as a feature they could disable in the software configuration.

I might take a look over the weekend, just wondered if anyone had already done it to save re-inventing the wheel. The forum link above shows it can be done, but without wire colours it's not so easy.

You can feed the two articles through Googles language tools to put it into English but as they apply to older (non-mux) models I'm not sure how much would be relevent.

[Robby_bobby_boo]

Thanks for the language tools thing - you learn something new every day!!!

Looks like you are well on track, one thing to check is that the wiring loom doesnt already have a wire to do this which has been folded back on the CC and could just be brought back into play to save running an extra cable.
I would be suprised if it wasnt there somewhere as a left over from other models despite the fact that the CCs loom needs to be different in many other ways.

please let me (and everyone else) know how you get on I reckon that if someone was to write good instructions with pictures there would be a lot of grateful cc'rs I will also have a look weather permitting
cheers

[slimgym]

Just had a quick gander. To get the trim off the internal plastic handle needs to come off (it's in two halves and unclips with a screwdriver placed against the visible clips) then two hex screws to remove the handle itself. Then all the round plastic trim removal pins and drop the trim off. The mechanism can work both ways. I have two wires attached, a light brown one marked 21/0710 and a yellow with green stripes, marked 10425/2010. Neither of these earthed here. Could do with a diagram... These disappear into the loom along the left hand side of the car, needs the trim removed in the boot on that side too.

A bit more time to figure out where they go. I expected to see one side of the mech grounded at the lock. I'll do some more digging when I get a bit more time. The left hand white thingy is the back of the key slot, the actuator it in the middle and the unlock mechanism is to the right.

[Robby_bobby_boo]

Well done so far, removing the trim is sometimes the hardest bit of these jobs!! :rolleyes:

If it bwasnt for the yellow and green I would have suggested that the brown was an earth as I have often found that car manufacturers us counter intuitive colour coding, however yellow and green eh?

Did you see if there was another terminal without a wire running to it on the actuator? or whether there was really only two wires available to be connected?

Maybe looking next at the serial bus box doobery might allow you to find those wires and where they go?

Having nearly cut my thumb of the other day I am out of the running to take the CC apart at the moment, but I will join in once I can use it again

Keep going it be will be worth it in the long run

[Robby_bobby_boo]

Hi me again
I have been trying to track down a wiring diagram for the 2003 206 cc mux models with little success - anyone got one they would like to share?

this way we might be able to trace the wires more simply, I have checked the data CD's being sold on e bay but they dont really have it.

Cheers

[boyracer]

Hi Slimgym,

Just wondered if you had any more updates on this adventure ?

It's bloody annoying having to get the key out of the ignition to get into the boot.

[slimgym]

Just wondered if you had any more updates on this adventure ?

I have a cunning plan but have yet to prove or try it - it relies on the BSI line being floating normally, and +12v to lock, GND to unlock. A relay could be used to swap the other leg of the lock (normally grounded) depending on the state of the BSI side. So if the BSI side is +12v then the relay will swap and give the lock mechanism a ground. If the BSI side is grounded then the relay remains normal and gives +12v to the other side. A diode to provide back-emf protection to the BSI. There's probably a much better way of doing this using transistors but if this works it can be improved on. First step is I have to take the boot lining down again and work out what the various states output from the BSI are.

This assumes the BSI leaves the lock pin floating but I think it's probably tied to earth via a resistor so it pulls down when not at +12v. If this is the case then it won't work

[tintop]

There are no wires to the rear boot locking motor only pluse lock and an earth.
The only way to make it unlock is to run a wire from BSI to rear of the car disconnect earth and replace pluse open wire if you do not fancy playing with the BSI unit find wire coming from door loom around fuse box area using a 12 volt tester tap into 12 volt pulse open wire. Our car is 03 and mult :rolleyes:

[slimgym]

There are no wires to the rear boot locking motor only pluse lock and an earth.
The only way to make it unlock is to run a wire from BSI ... Our car is 03 and mult :rolleyes:

Where is the earth to the boot lock solenoid applied? Mine is an 03 and has two wires which disappear into the loom, I expected to find one side earthed at the lock, but it's not, and having tested with a meter I couldn't find either side with good continuity to earth?!

[tintop]

It`s over a year ago we did this but on memory the earth wire is earth colours yellow/green
other pulse wire is numbered 621
BSI pluse open wire is 620

[rblabs]

Actually, I ran into this thread while solving a similar problem. The BSI is located at the passenger back seat (Near Side) and only sends 9 -12 volts to the boot actuator for about 3 seconds when lock button is pressed. When you press 'open' on the FOB, this pulse voltage is totally absent by design, this leaves you with the option of using the key to unlock the boot.

Nevertheless, when this actuator freezes up, it becomes very stiffened and hard to unlock using the key ultimately, did not provide you with failsafe option hence a poor design in my view.

In 206cc, the diagram above, will not work am afraid, unless, you have an actuator with 3 pin with the third serving the 'opening' function and then wire an open voltage from the central lock to the third pin.

Hope this helps someone out there.

Rob

[rblabs]

For the benefit of anyone still on boot unlocking issues, I do recommend or suggest you reverse the actuator's connecting wires. If you do this, your boot will unlock each time you press unlock on the FOB or any time the central lock is in open position. However you can then lock the boot with your key by turning clockwise! This is a better solution and someone out there can benefit asap. Let me know if this helps solving the problem.

Cheers.