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1.6 16V cambelt / timing belt guide

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Postby kj16v » Sun Jun 28, 2009 11:49 pm

Just finished changing the cambelt of my girlfriend's CC. The repair guide was quite vague on the subject so I wrote up this guide. Hopefully it will save a few people from having to give the life of their first-born, or whatever Peugoet charge for a cam belt change these days.


Jack up the right (drivers) side front of the car.

Put another jack under the sump and take the weight of the engine

Unbolt the top engine-mount from the car shell (1 bolt). Split the engine mount by undoing the three bolts. Now undo the three bolts holding the other half of the mount the engine.

Put a 13mm spanner on the drive belt tensioner pulley. Pull back the pulley as far as it will go to release the tension on the drive belt (the spring is strong, so you may have to call upon the power of Greyskull). Pull the drive belt off its pulleys

Remove RH wheel and remove the arch liner (2 plugs and some screws under the bumper).

Remove the cam cover (5 screws, 7 bolts).

Remove bottom pulley (3 bolts)

Remove bottom cambelt cover (1 bolt)

Remove spark plug cover, unclip hoses (push in the yellow tabs). Unclip connector and remove coil pack.

Remove either spark plug 1 or 4, unsrew the others but they can stay in the holes.

Stick something long enough not to get lost in the engine into the spark plug hole.

Use a wrench with a 22mm (IIRC) socket to turn the engine over. Turn it until your stick or whatever reaches its highest point. This is top dead centre (TDC).

The cam pulley notches don't line up!! What were Peugeot thinking of?!?

Using Tipex, marke the positions of the cam pulley notches on the rear cambelt cover. Under the car mark the position of the crank pulley notch on the engine block. IMPORTANT: Check if your new cambelt has white line already marked on it. If not, mark the OLD cambelt with the same three marks as above. Later on use these marks to mark the new belt (count the teeth to make sure they all line up).

Remove cambelt tensioner - spray a little WD40 on the pulley to ease pulling it off the belt. Don't get it in the bearings if you're going to reuse the tensioner!

I replaced the tensioner and the idler pulley so I removed the old ones.

Replace the tensioner pulley first but don't fully tighten the 13mm nut. The Rayco pulley comes with a 3mm allan key-like pin which holds back the tensioning mechanism. Keep that there. Note that there is a little recess hidden behind the pulley this fits over the dowl in the engine block.

DON'T fit the idler pulley yet!

Fit new cambelt ensuring all the marks line up and the arrows point forward. This is difficult without a cam locking tool so use plenty of swear words. You'll probably have to hold the exhaust cam pulley back with a ring spanner .

Holding the the cambelt in place, ease on the idler pulley at an angle and screw into place. More swearing maybe needed.

Tensioning the cambelt: The workshop guide does describe the job but I found it a bit confusing. So here's my explaination of the job:

Put a 6mm allen key into the hexagonal hole in the tensioning mechanism and turn it ACW until the pointergoes as far as it can. Put the little pin into the hole in the pointer to stop it pinging back.

Now turn the 6mm allen key CW until you feel it take up the slack in the pointer.

Holding the allen key in place, pull the pin out from the pointer.

Now keep turning the allen key CW until the pointer reaches the notch (it makes sense if you're looking at it).

Hold the pointer there and tighten the 13mm pulley nut.

Check all the cam and crank notches and marks still line up.

Use the wrench again to turn the engine through several full revolutions.

Check the pointer is still in line with the notch. If not, repeat the last four steps. IMPORTANT: The notch is hard to see but don't touch the belt or you'll move the pointer.

Refit everything else. In Haynes Manual style, fitting is the reverse of removal.

Women: Drive you car smug in the knowledge that, not only have you saved yourself £150-odd, but you rock at doing car stuff.

Men: As bove but tinged with a little embarrasment at driving a bit of a girls car.
Last edited by kj16v on Sun Jun 28, 2009 11:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby GrandadMonkey » Mon Jun 29, 2009 11:17 pm

Well done kj16v, an excellent "How to do it guide".

Thank you.
Ron
"If it ain't broke don't fix it!"
Golf 1.5 Tsi Evo SE Nav Estate Atlantic Blue
Polo 1.4 Match Edition Reflex Silver (wife's)
(Previously owned a 2005 206CC 1.6 Allure Moonstone for 10 years)
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Re: 1.6 16V cambelt / timing belt guide

Postby Enright » Fri Jun 01, 2012 12:02 pm

It would be worth making this a sticky, as it's the best guide I've yet managed to find.
Neither the Haynes or the CD I've bought cover the 1.6 16V engine properly, and although there's a notch on the crankshaft pulley (once you get the aux belt pulley off), unless anyone knows any better, timing marks to line it up to are non-existant!
Believe me, this can be a particular problem if anything moves under spring pressure while disassembled - which it did to me last night. :o
BCingU,
Neil. ;)

Mine: Daily driver; Mk2 MG ZS+ (TD). Current projects; 2 x Lotus Elan SE Turbos
Previous project: 56 plate 206 CC 1.6 Sport (with added Allure!)
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Re: 1.6 16V cambelt / timing belt guide

Postby Thar » Fri Jun 01, 2012 9:13 pm

Done! :thumbs:
Image...............

Life's too short to drive around with your top on! :D
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Re: 1.6 16V cambelt / timing belt guide

Postby Capncol » Wed Jun 06, 2012 3:20 pm

Only issue I have with that guide, is that this engine (& the 2.0ltr) use locking pins. The notches are to align with the printed lines on the new belt. So the notches won't line up with anything on the engine.
Just turn the engine by hand until the holes, pullies and flywheel line up as shown below and put the locking pins in place to hold it all there.

Using the guide "as written", doesn't allow for the fact that the car may have been timed 1 tooth out in the past, or timing may have jumped. You will simply be copying the error.

If you use locking pins, or suitable sized drill bits or bolts, you don't have to hold anything in place, or poke things down the spark plug hole, AND IT WILL BE RIGHT.
The 2.0 is similar but the locking pin for the crank is at the front pulley, not the flywheel

Lastly and most importantly turn the engine 2 revolutions of the crank by hand to make sure you haven't done anthing wrong and the marks still line up and the tensioner pointer is where it's supposed to be.
1.6eng.JPG


1.6..JPG
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Cheers Col.


206cc 1.6ltr (Wifes toy)
Mercedes ML (workhorse)
Corvette C3 (my toy)

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Re: 1.6 16V cambelt / timing belt guide

Postby c10ttn » Tue Jun 18, 2013 8:38 pm

Hi just changed can belt using guide, have turned engine over by hand up to 6 times and marks are not lining up. At the start all were lined up and tensioned set correctly, any ideas please. That's the lines on the belt with the pulleys. Just checked and all 3 pulley notches line up with painted on marks at beginning, I assumed the belt lines would too :oops:
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Re: 1.6 16V cambelt / timing belt guide

Postby gazza82 » Tue Jun 18, 2013 9:32 pm

Did you pin the cam belt gears as Capncol says .. if not, take it off, pin them and start again.
Family Fleet: ex-Cayman Green 206 CC 2.0 LE, Indigo Blue 206 1.4 HDi Hatchback, Alfa Romeo MiTo, Renault Clio II 1.5dCi
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Re: 1.6 16V cambelt / timing belt guide

Postby c10ttn » Tue Jun 18, 2013 9:58 pm

Yeah pinned them as said, the pulley notches line up after several turns so started it and all good :-) :-)
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Re: 1.6 16V cambelt / timing belt guide

Postby Capncol » Tue Jun 18, 2013 10:14 pm

c10ttn wrote:Hi just changed can belt using guide, have turned engine over by hand up to 6 times and marks are not lining up. At the start all were lined up and tensioned set correctly, any ideas please. That's the lines on the belt with the pulleys. Just checked and all 3 pulley notches line up with painted on marks at beginning, I assumed the belt lines would too :oops:
You will have to turn the engine several times to get the lines to line up again. If you had it pinned it will be fine. You turn the engine over twice to make sure you haven't made a mistake and the valve don't touch the piston. The belt will also settle on the pulleys so re check the tension.
Cheers Col.


206cc 1.6ltr (Wifes toy)
Mercedes ML (workhorse)
Corvette C3 (my toy)

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Re: 1.6 16V cambelt / timing belt guide

Postby Khrist » Mon Jul 01, 2013 1:36 pm

Is there any significant differences for the 2.0 GTI (136 hp) engine?

What size locking pins does it use for the cam hubs and crankshaft? Can I use a bolt or drill bit or such as I haven't found a kit for the 2.0 GTI (136 hp)?

Do I need the dynamic tensioner roller positioning rod seen in other kits or can I use something else?
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Re: 1.6 16V cambelt / timing belt guide

Postby c10ttn » Mon Jul 01, 2013 1:47 pm

I used 8mm wooden dowels for the cams and didnt lock the crank as painted a line to match the pulley, with spark plugs fitted also the crank isnt going to move.
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Re: 1.6 16V cambelt / timing belt guide

Postby Capncol » Mon Jul 01, 2013 8:42 pm

Khrist wrote:Is there any significant differences for the 2.0 GTI (136 hp) engine?

What size locking pins does it use for the cam hubs and crankshaft? Can I use a bolt or drill bit or such as I haven't found a kit for the 2.0 GTI (136 hp)?

Do I need the dynamic tensioner roller positioning rod seen in other kits or can I use something else?


Not really that different. Use suitable sized drill bits or bolts.

"dynamic tensioner roller positioning rod"
Wassat then? Do you mean the small pin to hold the belt tensioner back, in which case I use a small allen key?
Cheers Col.


206cc 1.6ltr (Wifes toy)
Mercedes ML (workhorse)
Corvette C3 (my toy)

When requesting help of a technical nature, please give as much detail of the fault as possible along with details of exact model, engine size & type, gearbox, year, mileage, and any relevant work carried out to try to solve the problem to help us help you.
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Re: 1.6 16V cambelt / timing belt guide

Postby Capncol » Tue Sep 24, 2013 1:15 am

Seems there's a bit of confusion regarding timing marks and methods, so as I have just done a cambelt job, here is my version. You will need to scroll the pics left and right for full picture using scroll bar at very bottom of post.

Using a basic set of hand tools, a jack and some axle stands like this
Image


Jack the car up, place on axle stands and place jack under sump. Take the weight of engine with the jack
Image


Next remove top engine mount in two halves,
From now on you can jack engine up and lower it down to access the different areas more easily ( up for top end stuff, tensioners and water pump- down for crank pulley area.
Image

Image


Take a note of the routing of the accessory belt, locate the square hole in the belt tensioner, and using a 3/8ths ratchet turn the tensioner anticlockwise and hold it there to remove belt. If you can locate the the small hole in the tensioner, you can lock it in the released position, but to be honest, it's just as easy to use the ratchet again to refit the belt.
Image


Turn the steering fully right (no need to remove wheel) and from under the front you will be able to undo the 3 bolts that hold the crankshaft pulley in place. It may help to put the engine in gear and have someone apply the brake to create a resistance to stop the pulley turning, but they will normally come loose if you whack the ratchet in the anti-clockwise direction against engine compression with the heel of your hand this will shock them loose.
Image



Next undo the bolts on the top and bottom cambelt covers and remove covers. You can see the bolt positions on the removed covers,
Image

Image


You can now see the cam belt in its entirety
Image

Image


Turn the engine by placing a socket on the bolt in the centre of crank nose (where you have just removed the pulley) Always turn clockwise when looked at *end-on* Turn untill the scribed line on the pulley boss points straight down (pic is looking up from underneath engine)
Image

Image


I've tipexed it so it shows up clearly
Image


Now check the cam pulleys. The holes in the pulleys should line up with the drilled bosses in the cylinder head. If they are 180 degrees out, turn the crank 1 complete turn and they should now line up. This is because the crank turns twice as fast as the cams ( crank does 2 revolutions for every 1 of the cams) You can now *pin* the cam wheels with 8mm drill bits or bolts. If you wish you can also pin the crank. There is a small hole just above the sump gasket join at the front of the engine that allows you to push a pin into the flywheel (Sorry. Forgot to take pic)
Image

Image


You can simply mark the pulleys but they are likely to move
Image


I prefer my universall cam locking tool
Image

Once you have the cams locked, remove the spring loaded tensioner followed by the cambelt. Then remove the guide roller which is to the right and lower to the tensioner in the pic
Image

Image

Image


If you are going to change the waterpump (recommended) then now is the time to do it.
Remove the bottom hose from the radiator and drain coolant into a suitable container. The bottom hose is the lower of the two
Image


Remove the 2 bolts holding the waterpump in place. Sometimes it needs a tap with a bit of wood and a hammer to shock it free
Image

Image

Image

Image


Place the new "O"ring onto the waterpump and give it a smear of washing up liquid to help the pump into place. The 2 bolt holes are offset, so you can't fit it wrongly. Also fit the new guide roller using the new bolt supplied.
Refill with fresh coolant and check for leaks (don't forget bottom hose if not already refitted)
Image

Image


This is the new tensioner. Note the right angled pin (like an allen key) Don't remove it yet!
Image


On the back is a slot that locates onto a dowel which ensures the tensioner is in the correct position.
(dowel splodged with tippex so you can see it- at 12 o'clock from the waterpump and to the left of the threaded stud)
Image

Image

Image


Fit the tensioner and loosly tighten nut
Image


Now fit the belt The arrows on the belt point in the direction of travel (clockwise) The 3 lines, line up with the notches in each cam pulley, and the engraved line on the crank boss. Start with the front cam pulley and thread the belt around the guide roller then the crankpulley, then waterpump, tensioner and finally rear cam pulley keeping tension on so that it doesn't jump a tooth. Once belt is on, re check that the lines still line up and the crank boss still lines up with your tippexed mark (pointing straight down)

You may have to go to the bottom of this post and scroll the pics across to see all the detail. The lines do line up perfectly but the camera angle makes them look slightly off.
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image



When you are sure everything is still lined up, pull out the pin from the tensioner which will now start to apply tension. Using a spanner and an allen key, tighten tensioner untill the moving pointer lines up with the little slot. Use the allen key to tension and the spanner to lock it in place once correct tension is acheived.
You can see the pointer with the pin through it, and the slot at the 12 O'clock position.
Image

Image


So it looks like this (removed for clarity)
Image


Recheck all alignment marks to make sure nothing has moved, remove locking pins or locking device and turn engine clockwise 2 revolutions using a ratchet on the crank bolt.
You should feel the resistance of compression (feels springy) but engine should not have a solid lock up. If it has- something is wrong. Turn it backwards to your start point and recheck everything. If you have done everything as above this won't happen.

Now recheck the pointer still lines up with the slot as it may have moved due to the belt settling on the pulleys. Adjust as above untill pointer is correctly aligned. (the lines on the belt will no longer line up- don't worry, this is normal

Referring to the pics above, replace everything in the revese order- the cam cover bottom bit first, then crank pulley, accsessory belt, then engine mount using jack to bring engine to the correct height.
Start engine and check coolant level as it warms up.
The level normally drops as the thermostat starts to open. Once it has cooled top up coolant to correct level.

This job took me about an hour and a half including taking loads of pics.

Hope this has put a few queries to bed.
Good luck- Enjoy!
Cheers Col.


206cc 1.6ltr (Wifes toy)
Mercedes ML (workhorse)
Corvette C3 (my toy)

When requesting help of a technical nature, please give as much detail of the fault as possible along with details of exact model, engine size & type, gearbox, year, mileage, and any relevant work carried out to try to solve the problem to help us help you.
Better still, put the details in your signature.
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Re: 1.6 16V cambelt / timing belt guide

Postby GrandadMonkey » Tue Sep 24, 2013 8:43 am

Another brilliant piece of work. Excellent photos and explanation. Thank you Capncol.
Ron
"If it ain't broke don't fix it!"
Golf 1.5 Tsi Evo SE Nav Estate Atlantic Blue
Polo 1.4 Match Edition Reflex Silver (wife's)
(Previously owned a 2005 206CC 1.6 Allure Moonstone for 10 years)
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Re: 1.6 16V cambelt / timing belt guide

Postby Enright » Tue Sep 24, 2013 2:37 pm

Is this a sticky? It certainly ought to be. Fantastic help.
BCingU,
Neil. ;)

Mine: Daily driver; Mk2 MG ZS+ (TD). Current projects; 2 x Lotus Elan SE Turbos
Previous project: 56 plate 206 CC 1.6 Sport (with added Allure!)
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