Engine cranking, no start, cam sprockets not turning

[wizlinkx]

Thanks Capncol.

A lapping tool. That's great.
Will order one. Hope I can get that compound here.

Do you think brake cleaner is good to clean up the carbon on the pistons and top of the cylinders?

Thanks.

[Capncol]

An automotive shop should sell it. Known here as grinding paste

[gazza82]

Do you think brake cleaner is good to clean up the carbon on the pistons and top of the cylinders.

I did an old Alfa engine a couple of years back (over 210k miles) and used a combination of stuff including a degreaser called Jizer and even some diesel fuel but mainly elbow grease. The deposit gets quite hard so the key is to soak it and brake/carb cleaner will simply evaporate. You also want to avoid getting too much of any cleaning fluid running down the sides of the piston as this may cause problems with the rings. Used mainly hard plastic scrapers to avoid damaging the surfaces and green scouring pads with occasional use of fine wire wool.

One piston was easy ... that was the one where the head gasket had gone ... 50/50 coolant and distilled water kept that one clean!

To be honest the others weren't bad so I wonder if Shell V-Power was the answer as I'd been using that for several years.

[wizlinkx]

An automotive shop should sell it. Known here as grinding paste

Thanks.

[wizlinkx]

One piston was easy ... that was the one where the head gasket had gone ... 50/50 coolant and distilled water kept that one clean!

To be honest the others weren't bad so I wonder if Shell V-Power was the answer..........

Lol.


I saw a video on youtube on cleaning the carbon on pistons. He was using WD40 Trigger pro Non-Aerosol. Sprayed, left to soak, then used Scotch Brite (The green scouring pads you mentioned) and a microfibre cloth to wipe. Showed it cleaned well. Think diesel should do it.

Ok. I realized now the video is partly sponsored by WD40
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZlGgkJQJM90

[gazza82]

Amazing how WD40 seems to do everything ... surprised it isn't negotiating Brexit!

[Capncol]

Amazing how WD40 seems to do everything ... surprised it isn't negotiating Brexit!

[wizlinkx]

Amazing how WD40 seems to do everything ... surprised it isn't negotiating Brexit!

Lol. Well, they'll think of something.

[wizlinkx]

Ok guys, since my last post ref. to the inspection of how many valves are damaged, contrary to what I wrote, found more damage.

Below is a link to the video of the head and valves damaged and lower block cylinder and piston hit marks on them. I must have had straws in my eyes the other day to say only one piston had the hit marks. Even the belt is ripped in two places.

https://youtu.be/dWZCwxK2bCo

So what do you guys think? The belt is ripped in two places. Is this in one instance or happened gradually over time?

I have to replace all exhaust valves and those damaged intake ones.
I decided, I can't do the replacing myself, so going to give it to an engineering shop. They can do the lapping and polishing. I'll clean up the lower block.

I still have to inspect the cam lobes for cracks.

Thank you all for all the invaluable advice. Wii keep the progress posted.

[Capncol]

Cams lobes will be fine. As I said earlier, I was surprised when you said only 2 damaged valves.

I hope you haven't mixed up the cam followers. They should go back in the original positions.

[wizlinkx]

Cams lobes will be fine. As I said earlier, I was surprised when you said only 2 damaged valves.

I hope you haven't mixed up the cam followers. They should go back in the original positions.

I checked the cam lobes. Couldn't find any cracks.

I packed the exhaust and intake sections separately, so that I won't make a mistake. That will be each (exhaust, intake) the sprocket, the sprocket bolt, cam shaft, oil seal and the top aluminum cover with the 12 bolts, and labeled them. All the parts and their respective fasteners, nut and bolts, removed are packed and labeled . Wifey is helping me on the side. It's her car.

Only the dealer seems to have the head bolts. Rest, valves, gaskets etc available in part shops for much cheaper.

[Capncol]

Just read further up where you said about cleaning the pistons?

DON'T!!
You will end up pushing debris down the sides of the piston into the ring grooves. You really don't want to do that

[wizlinkx]

Just read further up where you said about cleaning the pistons?

DON'T!!
You will end up pushing debris down the sides of the piston into the ring grooves. You really don't want to do that

Blimey. So will there be pre-ignition in time to come as more carbon builds up?
I was afraid of that, that's why I felt I should clean the pistons.
You are correct about the debris creeping down. So if I am to clean the pistons, I'll have to take out the lower block?

If you think I should stay clear of the piston cleaning job, I'll do that.

Thank you for alerting me Capncol.

[IanL]

The method usually advised to clean the pistons is to put a piston ring on the top of the piston, and then clean the space inside the ring. I would use a vacuum cleaner to remove debris. The idea is that the ring will prevent your tool coming in contact with and scoring the cylinder wall, and it will leave a small width band of carbon around the piston periphery so as not to interfere with the seal between piston top and cylinder wall.

Having said that, modern fuels should not result in sufficient carbon build-up to provoke pre-ignition, so, if the deposit is light, I would follow Capncol's advice.

[Capncol]

With modern fuel & oils, carbon build up isn't the problem it used to be. it will do no harm leaving it.