Seems to be ok - except the coolant leak which will belong on a different thread if the Radweld doesn’t fix it.

A tentative fingers crossed moment: Noticed that the coolant level was in fact low, so added some coolant to the system. Then, cleaned all the fuses and connections I could get at without major dismantling of parts of the car, checked all connections I could find, replaced the clutch micro switch in...

Ah bother... Going to be a time-consuming job, then. :-( Have already cleaned all the fuses in the driver-side fuse box, which was a little dusty but otherwise fine.. some discolouration on them but all good. There was a little water in the bottom of the engine fuse box (where the big fuses are) but...

I think you might have spotted the issue: Started it up, and after a few seconds the warning lights started pinging on again... Voltage tests (cumulative) have the following readings. Did test twice, second time after leaving it to idle for 10 mins. Idling, everything off: 14.44 14.43 Lights 14.39 1...

I’ll give that a shot in the morning (when I can see it clearly)... thanks Col. What should it be, approx? (it’s about 12.7-13V when disconnected, being brand new)

Ho hum... think I will have to invest in PP2000 - will it run on the same virtual machine as the manual does? (Assuming I have the correct cable as noted on other posts). Either that or nip it down to my local dealership. Multiple BSI resets performed, and after a short time running (1 min), faults ...

And a question: should the key be in when turning in the sidelights during the reset procedure? So far it hasn’t been, but wondering if that’s why it’s not saying that it’s reset.

Update: Did the BSI reset procedure... no confirmation of it from the system. Car has started again, but literally every fault (airbag, ABS, ESP, top up coolant level, etc) came up, as, of course, did the STOP flashing light. Lights work, wipers work, blowers work, and odometer is back. The dashboar...

Ok - tried starting the engine. Took a few seconds to turn over, but then did start... at which point: Doors repeatedly locked / unlocked, headlights wouldn’t come on (but sidelights did). And all lights lit (very festive, but somewhat unhelpful). Got out, with engine running and have had a wee look...

I realise that, but I can’t get the engine to start at the moment. It was coming up with an engine immobiliser fault.

So recommended option at this point is repeated reset of BSI until Economy mode clears and faults are reset? I have time tomorrow so that will be my main plan (as well as checking the cable to the gearbox)...

Ah - I understood from other posts on the topic (including the pinned BSI reset post comments) that Economy mode was also what happened when the BSI went awry... I will attempt another few resets. Battery is a Bosch with 5 year guarantee, bought new in the sale last week, so is hopefully up to scrat...

Well, poo... I bought a new battery, disconnected as per the instructions from Capncol, checked and cleaned all the fuses (and replaced a blown fuse 30A for the Air pump relay), refitted the new battery, turned on the side lights to reset BSI unit, inserted key, turned it on, and all the warning lig...

Hmmm... looks like a short battery then - I had clocked elsewhere on the forum that they might slide around and need packing and mine seems secure, but I had missed the threads where it talked about the pressure in the cabling. I’ll check the -ve cable while I’m changing it, but I wonder whether thi...

Sorry - typo! 12.4V